Updated: Fuel Tank Question

[CompleteCustoms]

Updated, see bottom of thread.

I purchased an '86 325 a few months ago that I am starting to sort out. One of the first things I needed to address was a fuel system issue that would cause it to stall and stumble.

I found that my fuel tank is pretty rusty and was clogging the transfer pump. I intend to change the transfer pump, main pump and filter.

My question is about the fuel tank. They are quite expensive, what are my alternatives? I've seen that a few people have just cleaned the rust our of theirs. Is that a legit way of dealing with the rust? Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one? Anybody know where I can find a reconditioned tank?

Thanks

[bmwguy325is]

To take care of the rust the best way is to remove the tank and empty it. They way I see it is if you are going this far you may invest in a new one or one in better shape.
I have seen a few ebay retailers sell them fairly reasonable. Who knows the quality though?

[dnguyen1963]

A quick, but temporary, fix is to remove the fuel pump then use a strong magnet to remove the rust from the tank. This should allow you to drive the car for a few months until you can locate a tank replacement.

[CompleteCustoms]

I guess I should have done a little more searching first. I initially checked Pelican and BMA Parts, their tanks are $720 and $660 respectively. Searching for refurbed tanks on the Googles turned up a thread on SpecE30.com on replacing fuel tanks, one user suggested Rock Auto. Their tank is only $175. I'm a little concerned about the quality with such a big price discrepancy, but (and I realize how stupid this sounds) it's just a fuel tank right? Do you really need a high quality tank?

[jlevie]

If the tank is structurally sound, acid cleaning an sealing isn't a difficult job. You can easily do it in one weekend. Good quality late model 63L tanks can be pretty reasonably, but good early 55L tanks are pricey.

If I was going to get a new tank and have to get pumps, I'd convert the car the car to the 63L tank system.

[SlamedIAm]

Not sure about for early models but for my late model 325is I used an ebay tank this past december. Fitment was perfect and quality seemed fine. Removal/installation really isn't that bad you'll just need a buddy to help lift it in without pinching any hoses.

Unfortunately I couldn't avoid a big brick/rock someone dropped in the road a few weeks ago and smashed my tank directly under where the pump fits in. Now the pump won't sit correctly and leaks from the top so I'm going to be replacing it again come September when I can afford it/have time.

Just thought I should mention that but I don't believe the aftermarket tank had anything to do with it. If I had gone OEM I believe it would have suffered the same fate. Big fucking rock > fuel tank.

[dannyyisntt]

I got one from the local auto parts for like $150ish. Bolted up perfect, no complaints.

[CompleteCustoms]

If the tank is structurally sound, acid cleaning an sealing isn't a difficult job. You can easily do it in one weekend. Good quality late model 63L tanks can be pretty reasonably, but good early 55L tanks are pricey.

If I was going to get a new tank and have to get pumps, I'd convert the car the car to the 63L tank system.

The tank is fairly rusty, the car sat for quite a few years before I picked it up. I think if I cleaned it out, I would have a better idea of its structural integrity, which I will likely do.

I am intrigued by the idea of switching to a 63L system. I am not really familiar with this swap, I am assuming it's an upgrade to the late model e30 system with one pump? Do you have any info or a link to how to perform this swap?

No matter which route I go, I will obviously have to pull the tank out, which isn't covered in the Bentley manual. Anyone know if it requires any weird tools?

Thanks

[CompleteCustoms]

Not sure about for early models but for my late model 325is I used an ebay tank this past december. Fitment was perfect and quality seemed fine.

Just thought I should mention that but I don't believe the aftermarket tank had anything to do with it. If I had gone OEM I believe it would have suffered the same fate. Big fucking rock > fuel tank.

I got one from the local auto parts for like $150ish. Bolted up perfect, no complaints.

Thanks for the info guys! I really didn't want to spend $700 on a tank for my $2k car, if I end up replacing it, I'll definitely go with the aftermarket.

[CompleteCustoms]

If I was going to get a new tank and have to get pumps, I'd convert the car the car to the 63L tank system.

Never mind, I found some info on this. Thanks

[SlamedIAm]

The tank is fairly rusty, the car sat for quite a few years before I picked it up. I think if I cleaned it out, I would have a better idea of its structural integrity, which I will likely do.

I am intrigued by the idea of switching to a 63L system. I am not really familiar with this swap, I am assuming it's an upgrade to the late model e30 system with one pump? Do you have any info or a link to how to perform this swap?

No matter which route I go, I will obviously have to pull the tank out, which isn't covered in the Bentley manual. Anyone know if it requires any weird tools?

Thanks

No special tools you'll just need to drop the exhaust and driveshaft so make sure you have new locknuts/gaskets associated with those jobs. There is a write up I believe somewhere on this forum I followed to do it last December but I'd be happy to answer any other questions you might have.

[CompleteCustoms]

I replaced the tank over the weekend, old one was completely rusted out, took the better part of a day but really wasn't too bad.

I have a couple new questions now. First and most importantly, it's an eta with the smaller tank, which I learned uses a cross over tube to transfer fuel between the two sides of the tank. Any idea where I can find a new cross over tube? My tank didn't come with one and I can't seem to find one anywhere online and the old one is pretty nasty.

Next, on the output side of my main fuel pump I have something that looks like a fuel pressure regulator except the hoses are on the sides instead of the front and back like the FPR under my hood. Any idea what this is? No mention of it in my Bentley manual. I just put it back on since I didn't have a replacement, but it's pretty corroded on the outside.

Finally, my fuel filter was located under the hood instead of by the fuel pump, where the Bentley indicated it should be. Is this normal for an eta, or something the PO did? Should I relocate it back by the fuel pump?

Thanks

[jlevie]

I replaced the tank over the weekend, old one was completely rusted out, took the better part of a day but really wasn't too bad.

I have a couple new questions now. First and most importantly, it's an eta with the smaller tank, which I learned uses a cross over tube to transfer fuel between the two sides of the tank. Any idea where I can find a new cross over tube? My tank didn't come with one and I can't seem to find one anywhere online and the old one is pretty nasty.

You can get a new crossover tube from your dealer or Tischer.

Next, on the output side of my main fuel pump I have something that looks like a fuel pressure regulator except the hoses are on the sides instead of the front and back like the FPR under my hood. Any idea what this is? No mention of it in my Bentley manual. I just put it back on since I didn't have a replacement, but it's pretty corroded on the outside.

That object is a vibration damper. It can be deleted with no adverse affects.

Finally, my fuel filter was located under the hood instead of by the fuel pump, where the Bentley indicated it should be. Is this normal for an eta, or something the PO did? Should I relocate it back by the fuel pump?

Some early ETA cars had the filter mounted in the engine bay. It works the same in either mounting positions.

[jlevie]

You can get a new crossover tube from your dealer or Tischer.

That object is a vibration damper. It can be deleted with no adverse affects.

Some early ETA cars had the filter mounted in the engine bay. It works the same in either mounting position.

[CompleteCustoms]

You can get a new crossover tube from your dealer or Tischer.

That object is a vibration damper. It can be deleted with no adverse affects.

Some early ETA cars had the filter mounted in the engine bay. It works the same in either mounting positions.

Thank you so much, you've been a huge help with this project.