alright, well i have my car on a lift, and i have the drive shaft out, the controll arms disconected pretty much everything is off, but i can't get the subframe to fall... any tips on getting those bushings to seperate? i tried using a puller... but no luck... any help is apprechiated.
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I'm pretty sure you have to hammer the bolt up through the rear seat area. have you taken the bolts out yet? -
take a 2 jaw puller hook the jaws on top of the sub frame. Then put the screw in the hole for the bolt use a couple of washers if you have to and put the inpact on it it takes a while but you will eventuly rip the rubber bushings in half. once out of the car use a torch to burn all the rubber out and take a medium sized drift (while everthing is still hot) and hammer and knock out the outter bushing sleeve. that is how I had to do it on my car.The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de TocquevilleOriginally posted by Fusion
The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
William Pitt-Comment
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any other advice?
The exhaust and driveshaft is off the car.
The two 22mm (?) bolt nut by the subframe bushings are off, control arms disconnected. . . still not budging at all.
We don't need to drop the diff do we?~ Go Canucks Go! ~
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yeah i used the puller for one side, but its good news to hear the bolt is supposed to give way! i will do it on the other side tomorrow and then pull those bolts up. are they located under the rear seat? hmm what else am i wondering.... i duno... anything else anyone can think of is apprechiated.Originally posted by mrsleeveComment
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The diff is attatched to the subframe. The big bolt that the diff hangs on needs to come out.
Did you remove the plates that go between the big nuts and the subframe bushing? 2 5mm allan keys on the side of the car there.
You do not need to press the bolts up into the passengers area. The subframe will fall down with a little coaxing after those 2 big nuts/plates and the diff hanger are removed. Just make sure you have everything else out of the way or it will get damaged on the way down.Adam Fogg- '88 M3
Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'Comment
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The bolts are under the rear seat, mine had some 'goop' in on the top of the bolts to keep them in place that I had to dig out before the bolts would pop up. If you have the rear seats out, put a towel or something over the bolt tops when you put a puller on there. One of my bolts finally popped out and shot up to the roof when I had the puller on the subframe... :) No damage, but I'm glad I wasn't in the car when it came shooting out!Originally posted by kowalski
It sounds as if you may have the same issues I had - the metal in the middle of the bushing seized up with the hole it fits in. I ended up busting both sides, then having to take a Dremel to grind out the bushing material that was left in the hole. PITA.Attached FilesJohn in MD - 1991 318is
190k miles and still rolling!
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yeah, i think your right... i got all the bolts off, and i removed the bolts that hold the subframe to the tranny, and the diff bolt to the bushing on the car. im just trying to get the last controll arm nut out, but i cut my fuel line with the ratchet... so i need to find a new one of those. if anyone has one that can be mailed to me within 2 days that would be awsome. also i need the aluminum piece that the shifter lever mounts into. the upper piece that the ball sits in.. i broke my yesterday:( so if anyone has those 2 pieces that would be helpful. thanks for the tips! hopfuly we can finish everything up today!Comment
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If you need some parts, give these guys a call: http://www.affordable-autoparts.com/contact.htm. They specialize in bmw (and other "high end") cars. I got a thermostat housing from them for $40, pretty reasonable I thought.Comment
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That part is $33 at BMA new for your 1990 325i....Originally posted by redhatpat
Not to knock these guys, I know nothing about them, but I have had very good experiences with both BMA Parts and Pelican Parts: both have reasonable prices and excellent customer service. BMA tends to be less expensive, FWIW, and I order most of my parts from them now.John in MD - 1991 318is
190k miles and still rolling!
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Originally posted by ak96ssThat part is $33 at BMA new for your 1990 325i....
Not to knock these guys, I know nothing about them, but I have had very good experiences with both BMA Parts and Pelican Parts: both have reasonable prices and excellent customer service. BMA tends to be less expensive, FWIW, and I order most of my parts from them now.
wahoo i got the sub fram bushing to seperate, it was really easy i can't believe i didn't htink of it before, i just used a punch and hammerd the metal insert of the bushing sideways and worked my way arround in a cicle and it eventualy just fell. and then i took it to my friends and we made a jig and pressed the bushings out. ps: if anyone ever does this, those bushigns shoot out really fucking fast, so watch out. it shot across the shop and put a dent in the wall:D
affordable auto is a complete rip off, but i may need to go to them for my fuel line because the closest one is in germany:( the shifter link i got welded yesterday, so thats all fine now.
edit: ps that 40$ is 40 $ canadian, compared to the 33$ american.Comment
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bringing back the thread
I can't get the damn rear subframe off the car. It came out of my M3 so easily a few years ago, but this 318 I'm working on now is just a pain in the butt...
Everything is loose the puller method isn't working very well and neither is anything else I tried. Tomorrow I think I am going to drill out the bushing to get the subframe to drop and then figure something out. Any suggestions??
Where does the bolt come through the body? I can't find that either
daveComment
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Pull out the backseat, they should be under there, IF I remember correctly (I may be wrong - but easy to try, right?)Originally posted by 1990m3- Sean HayesComment
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well it finally came out, it was f**ked. The driver side bolt is totally frozen in there, but penetrating fluid overnight took care of that. The bolt is still frozen, but at least the subframe dropeed from around it. The passenger side is a different story...
The bolt is totally out, removed through the back seat area, but the bushing is still frozen on there. The subframe is out, but the bushing stayed on the car. I can't believe it, nor have I ever seen that happen to any bushing before. Thank god I'll never have this problem again since it's getting poly bushing replacements and a whole different subframe. I ended up using a 4' pry bar to pry the subframe down from the bushing on the pass. side. It was ugly, and that was the only way it wanted to come out, but now it's done, time to start rebuilding....finally
the subframe came out so easily in my m3, i really didn't think it would be nearly this challenging on my 318.Comment
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you could'v put a long screwdriver inside the bushing and wiggled it arround, i did 2 frozen bushigns like that. or a punch at and angle working in a circle will do it as well. good luckComment
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