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Cannot turn ignition switch with a twist

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    #1

    Cannot turn ignition switch with a twist

    Had a weird problem happen to me today. This morning, got into my car and I noticed the brake pedal was very stiff with the car turned off. Started it up just fine and the brake pedal functioned normally along with the brakes working normally.

    Drove it to work and parked it, everything seemed normal. Came back 8 hours later, and the ignition switch will not work. The wheel feels locked, as it would if you locked the steering wheel, the brake pedal is also very stiff again, but the ignition switch will not turn to start the vehicle. It will just move to accessories.

    I found this and I have a feeling it is related. Any help would be really appreciated, heading back out in the morning to try to get it fixed as fast as possible. Thanks in advanced.

    Car is a 1989 325iX auto
    Last edited by UMGuy; 11-19-2012, 12:20 AM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Either the switch itself is messed up, or the lock cylinder is. My bet is on the lock cylinder since you mention the steering is still locked.

    And the brake pedal feeling that way is normal. With the engine off, there is no vacuum supplied to the brake booster, meaning there is no assistance when pressing the pedal, meaning a firmer pedal.

    Comment

      #3
      Wiggle your wheel back and forth while turning the key might help. You do need to take a look at the lock cylinder. A little graphite might do wonder.

      Comment

        #4
        There are three parts to the key cylinder. The lock cylinder itself, the ignition switch itself and the part of the steering column itself that both of the connect to. That part I am talking about is the aluminum casting that holds the cylinder and switch, and is also the center support for the steering shaft itself.

        That has failed for me twice. In both cases, the symptoms were exactly as you described here. I have never sen this on any other car, only the E30.

        It is a pain in the butt to change and requires getting BMWs goofy "anti-theft" bolts out. I hope for your sake that isn't the issue, but if you pull the switch off the back (clips in, very easy) and the lock cylinder off the front (use a good paperclip, its easy unless the stupid thing is hard to turn....bummer for you) and the central part still won't turn, then that is the issue.

        Sorry if my writing on this isn't clear. Once you get all of it apart it lakes sense. Here is another hassle: you need to be able to turn the key to get the wheel off, and you need to get the wheel off to get to the column cover screws.

        Good luck, and again, I hope that ain't it.

        Luke

        Closing SOON!
        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

        Comment

          #5
          ^ I have replaced the housing on two e34's, but not on an e30.

          Comment

            #6
            Alright, so 1 rockstar, 2 broken interior pieces and 1.5 hours I got everything taken apart and can now get it to start with a screwdriver. Attempting to get the lock cylinder tumbler out now so I can take a look at it and see if anything is blocking it or if it is broken itself. I plan on hitting up the local BMW dealer and seeing how much it would be to get a new one if it is truly broken. Thanks for all the help and the input. If it is not the tumbler I will be looking into the housing as suggested.

            Comment

              #7
              I have an almost new ignition cylinder with two keys!
              The difference between porcupines and BMWs is that porcupines have the pricks on the outside!

              Comment

                #8
                will talk depending on how much the dealership wants.

                I am having difficulty with the removing of the tumbler, trying the paperclip thing, but I don't seem to hit anything when in position 1, any thoughts?

                Comment

                  #9
                  You actually need more of a nail as the tip needs to come to a point. They can be a PITA to remove without the right tool.
                  The difference between porcupines and BMWs is that porcupines have the pricks on the outside!

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I am having a similar issue: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=271004
                    This is what I found regarding removing the lock cylinder: http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/i..._Ignition_Lock and they do advise using a nail.
                    BMW Seattle (in Sodo) said the lock cylinder matched to my current key will cost $73 before tax and will take 3-5 business days to get.
                    Alpinewhite 318i

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Thanks, so another minor update:

                      Got the new lock cylinder from BMW of Bellevue, never again will I go there. Over charged me and they had the wrong lock cylinder cut originally and had to mail it back and get me the correct one. It was ridiculous.

                      Anyways, home with the new working lock cylinder, which I can get to have that little piece drop down aka I could potentially pull out the new one if it was in there. But the old one is and I cannot get it to out.

                      What I think has happen is that the pin that is supposed to be pushed so the cylinder can be removed has broken, anyone ever hear of something similar? And if anyone has any suggestions on getting it out please let me know, regular method is not working.

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