Heating / Air Problem

[iBazooka]

Not sure if anyone has an idea but I just picked up my '89 325i, when I purchased the car, it was known the heat is not working. After messing around with it, the car BLOWS cold air only in the #3 range, not 1, not 2, only 3. I get no heat. Along with that, in the bay, the two (silver) tubes coming out of the firewall are completely open with no hoses connected. I'm unsure if it was previously closed up due to coolant leak? Or just never connected for some freak reason but does anyone have any detailed photo's of that general location in the bay and what it should look like when the hoses are connected and where they come from.

How it looks now.


Thank you!

[jink0619]

The blower fan resistor is dead needs replacement, thats why your only blowing on #3. those two silver tubes are for the heater core. Previous owner deleted the heat, dont under why ppl do this, anyways your gonna need to reconnect them.

[MoreMayhem]

No car heater in Pennsylvania? Dang, I survived one winter in California in a Porsche 914 with no heat, and I thought that was rough. When I finally got it fixed I made up a song I would sing as the heat came though the vents on chilly nights!
Real OEM or Penske Parts can help with parts diagrams, but I would suspect a leaking heater core,or more likely the valve, as the reason for the bypass. There are some cores for sale in the parts section.

[jlevie]

The supply hose to the heater core comes from the rear of the head. The return hose goes to the thermostat housing.

Before hooking up the core, rig up something so you can pressure test the core. If it is bad you don't want to flood the interior of the car with coolant.

[iBazooka]

Do you guys believe these 2 hoses that are circled, are the ones that should be the ones connected to the open spout? Cant seem to find any other alternatives that would reach / work.

I called up the previous owner today and said he has no clue why the heat stopped working, it was never altered and worked fine 2 some years ago, i'm beginning to think a shop did it and failed to notify the owner or the owner is failing to tell me somthing, regardless i'll have to end up hooking it up and just hoping the core isn't bad and wont have leaking!

[kmarei]

If you're going to hook them up anyway
I'd test with a hose first
If you have a leak
I'd rather have water than coolant leaking into the car

[vert_this]

I'd say the PO isnt telling the whole story. I'd say he went in because it was leaking in the floorboard and they told him they could temporarily repair it for a little or fix it right for a lot. I'd hook em up add coolant and prepare for coolant to go everywhere in the floorboard this will reveal the leak and determine if you need a water valve or a heater core. Put a bucket and scrap towels down though.

or you could simply put a funnel down in the lowest pipe and pour water in until you see where its leaking from, however if its the heater core the water valve may have to open up to see that leak so push the heat selector to hot. The leak will obviously come from somewhere under the drivers side.

The other problem with only one selection is the resistor block, its needs to be replaced.

[iBazooka]

UPDATE: Poured water into both return / inlet pipes, no leaking on the inside of the car whatsoever which is leading me to think there is no leak at the heater core and was by-passed for some other reason? Or possibly leak fixed it self, who knows, regardless I shall be connected the 2 hoses and will see if it's bad or not! :borg:

[vert_this]

sometimes leaks aren't easily revealed until they are under some pressure so if I were you I'd have some towels on hand when you decide to attach those hoses. You will also need to bleed the system to completely fill it when you reattach them.

I have never had a leak fix itself and I can't logically understand why anyone would bypass the heater core unless there was a leak.