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    Car dies whether idling or moving

    So my car dies idling or moving. It just stops like I turned it to off. I coast to the side of the road, and I can turn it right back on for another 5 minutes or so down the road. Seems to last shorter if its warmed up.

    Monitored the fuel pump. Its not cutting out. Replaced fuel filter anyways (had a spare.)
    Replaced the fuel pump relay.
    Replaced the DME relay.
    Replaced the coils with a spare set because according to the schematics, besides the DME, the coils are the other thing it directly powers for nominal 12v.

    Monitored the RUN signal off the ignition switch. It doesn't cut out not even when the car stops running.

    Its almost as if you are unplugging a crank or cam position sensor where it cuts out quick. I know you can kill it if you disconnect certain sensors. Ground is tight on the battery and on the frame itself.

    Any suggestions? M44 318ti. Id like to patch it and get through winter. Maybe its the DME at this point overheating or something stupid.
    Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|

    #2
    I've seen a short in the CPS wire/connector cause this, multiple times.
    90 325i DD/Track
    03 Durango 5.9


    Originally posted by e30mpg
    It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

    Comment


      #3
      Fusible link in the secondary battery cable.
      Mine did the same thing for three weeks before I found it.
      Looks good on the outside, corroded on the inside.
      I picked up a 50 amp replacement at Autozone and soldered the element to the original terminals.
      I hope that helps.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Farwest92; 01-02-2013, 07:28 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Farwest92 View Post
        Fusible link in the secondary battery cable.
        Mine did the same thing for three weeks before I found it.
        Looks good on the outside, corroded on the inside.
        I picked up a 50 amp replacement at Autozone and soldered the element to the original terminals.
        I hope that helps.
        Yes, good point, and cheaper to try this first.
        90 325i DD/Track
        03 Durango 5.9


        Originally posted by e30mpg
        It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 603Racing View Post
          I've seen a short in the CPS wire/connector cause this, multiple times.
          Crank of camshaft?

          Camshaft one is fairly new, the crank is the original.

          Ill do this. I called up an independent bmw shop today, asking him how much to reprogram the EWS, and he told me but asked me why. I said the problem and he said he thinks its elsewhere, not in the computer.

          So Ill check out the Crank PS and fusible link tonight.

          Thanks guys
          Ma che cazzo state dicendo? :|

          Comment

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