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325 seta starter/engine issues... HELP! (pics and sob story included)

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    325 seta starter/engine issues... HELP! (pics and sob story included)

    So I bought a "new" E30 last week after my beloved 318is was totaled. I have a starting/ignition issue and a motor issue with the car that I will get to further down.
    Here's before the death...

    And after:



    And here's the seta, 1988 325, 5 speed, 218k. (picking it up, then in the shop with its fallen brethren)







    I'm keeping the 318 to nab parts from and will eventually scrap it when I've snatched all I can from it.

    ANYWAYS.
    The 325 was purchased for about $1200. It doesn't run. The reason for the higher price (for a non running car) is because it has lotsa new poly bushings, new Eibach springs and Billy touring's. The fact that is has a sick half ass single-stage orange peel paint job in possibly henna (?), its pretty damn rusty, and 90% of the trim is painted in bedliner increases the value too.

    I bought it because its a very solid chassis, the clutch and tranny feel great (besides sloppy linkage that will be getting replaced) and I wanted a project. It also has a very nice interior, crack free dash, HID's, etc, a lot of very good parts.

    I digress. The motor issue first. The car had had a starter/ignition issue for a couple months before the his gf over-revved it while push starting (bc of said starting issue) the motor was cold as well, it was the day before Halloween in MN. He thought it had a broken rocker arm but didn't look into it at all because he had too many other projects ( S14 240 w/ 5.3 SBC is one). So I pulled the VC, and there's no visible damage as far as my naked eye can tell. I dumped the oil and it looks normal (no coolant, no chunks of whatever), and am currently working on getting the oil pan off because the gasket needs replacing, and I wanna make sure there's not any broken off motor chunks lurking in the bottom of the motor. He said it made a "really awful noise from the top end". He's a manager at a shop, so I assume he would know what it sounded like, but I can't rule anything else out either. Maybe a shrieking alternator at high rpm when cold.....? Idk, any suggestions as to what it could be or what I should do/test are much appreciated! I'm a pretty capable do-it-myself-er that's eager to learn, so lay it on me. If it is the head, I'd like to confirm this somehow-leak down test?- I will replace it with an i head and do the complete 327i swap.

    On to the starter issue. He said the starter just quit working via the key one day, so he just push started it and jumped the terminals on the starter for a while. He was a very honest guy (and I'm still in contact with him so I can get more info) and he told me he really never looked into the issue. The key turns all the way as it should, it just doesn't turn the starter over. Any ideas of what this could be?? Ignition relay..? It was replaced with a used unit a year ago but I suppose that could've gone bad.

    Any help is greatly greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.

    -Ben

    Early models do it better.

    '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

    #2
    Motor: "A really aweful noise" is very vague. There are a lot of possiblities... snapped timing belt bending all the valves, blown piston, broken crank, thrown rod, the list goes on. No way of telling for sure until you get the pan off. Maybe it's not bad at all, but probably is.

    If the guy is a shop manager I'd be REALLY surprised if he didn't diagnose it.

    I wish you the best, but it doesn't look good.
    90 325i DD/Track
    03 Durango 5.9


    Originally posted by e30mpg
    It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

    Comment


      #3
      Have you turned the motor over by hand or otherwise verified the timing belt is good?
      sigpic
      Originally posted by JinormusJ
      Don't buy an e30

      They're stupid
      1989 325is Raged on then sold.
      1988 325 SETA 2DR Beaten to death, then parted.
      1988 325 SETA 4DR Parted.
      1990 325i Cabrio Daily'd, then stored 2 yrs ago.

      Comment


        #4
        If it was over revved, I would suspect a few bent valves. Pulling the oil pan isn't going to tell you much unless something went really wrong with the bottom end. I would start with a compression test. That should reveal any bent valves.

        Comment


          #5
          The first check on the starter issue is to see if power is presented to the starter solenoid (black/yellow wire) when the key is turned to start. If not trace back to the ignition switch to find out why. If so, verify the engine to body ground and that power is present at the starter main lug. If all that checks out replace the starter.

          Once you get the starter working, run a compression test. If the engine was overreved, the odds are that there are bent valves.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment


            #6
            sidenote... what steelies were you running on the 318?
            Now with 2.7i power!!!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 603Racing View Post
              Motor: "A really aweful noise" is very vague. There are a lot of possiblities... snapped timing belt bending all the valves, blown piston, broken crank, thrown rod, the list goes on. No way of telling for sure until you get the pan off. Maybe it's not bad at all, but probably is.

              If the guy is a shop manager I'd be REALLY surprised if he didn't diagnose it.

              I wish you the best, but it doesn't look good.
              Yeah I know its about at vague as it gets... I was thinking the same, why wouldn't he just figure out what the issue was? That was/is a concern of mine, but on the other hand the guy was very honest about everything else that wasn't quite right with it, idk I felt like I could trust him on that. And from the grease/dirt build up on the valve cover mounting hardware it seemed that it hadn't been recently removed so I kinda doubt he did. But I don't know for sure.

              Originally posted by frankenbeemer View Post
              Have you turned the motor over by hand or otherwise verified the timing belt is good?
              I haven't tried, no. I will try asap. It would act seized if the timing belt was broken?

              Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
              If it was over revved, I would suspect a few bent valves. Pulling the oil pan isn't going to tell you much unless something went really wrong with the bottom end. I would start with a compression test. That should reveal any bent valves.
              I would think too. Yeah, I know its very unlikely anything is in the oil pan at all, but the gasket is already needing replacement and I wanna make sure, so I might as well. Okay, will do! Thanks.

              Originally posted by jlevie View Post
              The first check on the starter issue is to see if power is presented to the starter solenoid (black/yellow wire) when the key is turned to start. If not trace back to the ignition switch to find out why. If so, verify the engine to body ground and that power is present at the starter main lug. If all that checks out replace the starter.

              Once you get the starter working, run a compression test. If the engine was overreved, the odds are that there are bent valves.
              Gotcha. I will grab a voltmeter from work tomorrow and check it out. Where is the engine to body ground strap on M20's? I'm new to this whole 6 cylinder deal... haha
              Good ideas, I will give that a shot! I really wanna get that starter working as soon as I can (along with the motor entirely of course).

              Thanks guys! I will report back soon.

              Early models do it better.

              '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by AlphaE View Post
                sidenote... what steelies were you running on the 318?
                They're just 14in BMW steelies, the ones that had the studly 80's hubcaps on them. ET35 I believe.. iX spec. Got them from my buddy when he bought his iX, they were pretty rusty so I sandblasted em and sprayed them white for shits. The drivers front needs some minor straightening but they actually might survive! They be me winter wheels/tires. I had/have weaves for the summer.

                Early models do it better.

                '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

                Comment


                  #9
                  So I pulled the spark plugs tonight, shoulda done that a while ago because I found the motor issue! Kind of at least, it seems to be that a valve went nuts during the over-rev...
                  Leading to this;
                  Can anyone spot the bad egg?





                  I'm going to try to get the head off this weekend, to check for piston/cyl wall damage. Its in the #3 (from front of the car to the back) cylinder, all the other spark plugs look as they should so I'm hoping its just the one.
                  Still working on the starter issue, I verified that the engine ground strap is good, and cleaned all the contact points to be sure, I will be checking the black/yellow wire asap. Jlevie, what's the starter main lug..?
                  I turned the motor over by hand earlier this week as well, it felt very smooth and seemed to have good compression. Timing belt would be fine then I'm assuming?

                  I'm pretty new here yet, been lurking for a while, but I appreciate any advice, pointers and criticism guys!

                  Thanks in advance.
                  Last edited by BenjaminButtton; 01-16-2013, 10:03 PM.

                  Early models do it better.

                  '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Also, does anyone know what this plug is...? I found it under the driver's dash where all the other fun wires are, not sure if I should be concerned or not.



                    I couldn't find anything that it should've connected to whatsoever, and I spent quite a bit of time searching. I think there was 5 holes that had contact points in them, and they had started to corrode so I doubt its been connected for a while.

                    Early models do it better.

                    '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i say you give the tires a good kick and if she doesnt start right up... well all hope is lost
                      SELL ME YOUR E30
                      1988 Apline 325iX SOLD
                      1999 MINT Lincoln Towncar Pimpin
                      My Bike when they shit out :wgaf:

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Haha yeah okay Jesse.. if only it were that simple.

                        Early models do it better.

                        '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Bumpy Bump for my Broke Back Bitch Buddy
                          SELL ME YOUR E30
                          1988 Apline 325iX SOLD
                          1999 MINT Lincoln Towncar Pimpin
                          My Bike when they shit out :wgaf:

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hey guys, I didn't want to start a new thread so I'm just going to update this, although the car is going in a different direction.

                            The m20 ended up being shot (broke off a valve head and rattled it around quite a bit) so I decided to jump into an m50 swap - the motor is in, everything's hooked up - I go to start it for the first time and I have the same no-crank issue that the previous owner had.

                            I've been testing shit and trying to chase wires (I HATE wiring) for the past week to no avail. I replaced the ignition switch with the known good one from my 318 - nothing, I believe the car used to be an automatic (the neutral safety switch deal was spliced) so I went over the splice for that (and the manual swap was a long time ago so that's basically a non-issue anyways) and I can't figure it out.

                            The black/yellow starter solenoid wire has no power, neither does the red battery power wire for the ignition, nor the 2 (I think) green power wires for the ignition power.

                            Anyone know what this could be? I'm thinking I'll just ghetto rig a button start or something directly from the power distribution block (which is getting power), I'm so sick of messing with the damn car.

                            Early models do it better.

                            '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Is that for the m20 diagnostic plug or the m50? I swapped in a 1994 325i m50tu, not sure if you saw that or not. I have power to the 14 and 17 pin on the m50 diag conn.

                              Thanks a ton for the reply man, and a link woul be great if you can find it!

                              Early models do it better.

                              '86 Cosmos Sedan LS1

                              Comment

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