CEL code 1222, car wont start ?

[bronzit 325i]

Okay, first off, excuse me for anything in this post that sounds like im retarded, because I basically am

I made a previous post about what happend to my 89 325i that was completely unsuccessful.:(

I checked the CEL code and came out with 1222.
I found this concerning code 1222:

"Lambda Control 1
This code is stored when the DME detects excessive deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty, Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked, Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak, Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by mechanical failure (Spark plugs, compression, intake/exhaust valves,...etc)"

Now, I know the tank is full, as for everything else... im . Will faults in any of these cause the car to not start?

I can hear the starter turning, the motor cranks but inconsistenly and never catches.
I had a rough idle before this and the CEL would come on after a few seconds in neutral but would turn off after I pressed the accelerator.

anything helps.. thanks.

[rwh11385]

i got that code before my AFM went out. either way, it could be a place to start checking on that list.

[bronzit 325i]

thx ill start with that

[bronzit 325i]

still parked

OK, I used the Bentley to test my AFM and it checks out ok.

I checked my plugs and Im getting spark. Then I checked the fuel return from the pressure regulator and thats getting fuel so Im assuming my fuel pump is working ok.

The engine will rotate but wont start then itll quit rotating and a loud whiney squeel follows. I think thats the starter still turning.

If I hold the accelerator down (or hold it to WOT) I can get the car to start, but then it rumbles and shakes and sounds like it may be missing. then it dies after a few seconds.

I really need to get this figured out because I don't have a driveway so I have to keep in on the street. I've racked up $50 in parking tickets so far...

Anybody have a similar problem or give me another idea where to look?

[silversleeper]

Are you sure you got the spark plug wires in the correct order?

Gimme some background on your cars situation... when did this "non-starting" of the engine first occur? Perhaps a link to your original thread. Also, did you make any changes to the engine before this happened? Changed out your spark plugs, or did the timing belt... etc.

[bronzit 325i]

alright, heres the original thread :

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=61762

It happened about 2 weeks ago, I had driven the car home and back, 130miles each way (not in the same day). I pulled off for some gas and then as I accelerated back onto the interstate, something gave out.

In early-mid November I changed the spark plugs (nothing fancy, just regular bosch), replaced distributor cap & rotor, and replaced timing belt, tensioner, and all v-belts. I've driven about 2300 miles since then, no problems.

But ever since I bought the car my CEL light was coming on during idle, like at stop lights, then went away when i pressed the accelerator pedal (i think you (silversleeper) were experiencing the same thing).

someone else said that the timing may have slipped or that a rocker arm may have broken.

[ColdAccord]

ttt. i have the same symptoms and cant figure it out

[ColdAccord]

and its not the icv. i'm gonna swap out the afm next, but dont have a tb gasket to replace the tps yet

[porsche gt1]

I am thinking fuel pump. If you have to open it up to WOT and it starts and you get a whine when is stops, I say it is a pretty good bet.

[ColdAccord]

meh, its more like it starts after trying a few times, runs for 5 seconds (soon as you touch the gas pedal it dies) and if you dont touch the gas pedal, it dies after that 5 seconds. I don't think it could be o2 sensor. then it would just have a rough idle, not no idle. that's also why i don't think it's just a regular vacuum leak, as with a vacuum leak you can still rev it up it just cant hold an idle

[vivalegreg]

i had the same friggen problem with my ix

youd try starting it, it would fire up then like instantly die..
i had no choice to drive it, i found that in order to make it run, and not die out everytime u start it, id unplug the afm, then start the car, and give it gas to like 3000 rpm or so , enough so the engine would get a little warm, then plug the afm back in, as i plugged it in i would keep on the throttle (mind you i was doing all this in the engine bay, pulling on the throttle cable to rev it)

it would run after that, it would idle rough, feel rough, but would run even on the highway

my problem i believe was the 1223 coolant temp sensor, sounds like it could be something like ur dealing with, possibly since its 1222 engine temp sensor??

i know those throw the cars out of wack

try doing that trick to start it, i know it will sound like shit (like its missing and all, but mine ran)...until the valves bent from being out of timing!

good luck

[ColdAccord]

im throwing the 1222. i unplugged the tps to see if i would get a different response. it behaved different, but still the same end result lol. I will see if I have a spare temp sensor and try that, but I think I only have spare eta ones.

[ColdAccord]

ttt

[ColdAccord]

anyone? car ran fine, this was an all of a sudden thing.

[ColdAccord]

?