Check light - delete?

[cwatt]

My check light comes on every 20seconds. It comes on when I turn my low beams on. It comes on when I turn my high beams on. It comes on when I do just about anything. It comes on when I'm not doing anything.

My question is simple - do most people delete the 'check' light and cluster on the roof? I simply don't care if there's a light telling me my low beans are on. I'm usually very proactive on maintenance, so I haven't much need for the light.


thanks,
- Colin

[StereoInstaller1]

Personally, I love that "check" system, one of my favorite features of these cars.

Try cleaning the contacts on the check panel relay pack, you might get lucky.

Luke

[jlevie]

The best solution is to determine why the check light is activating and do the necessary repairs. Those LED's aren't to tell you the low beams are on, but rather to tell you that something is wrong with low beams (or wrong with any other monitored item).

[CabbE30]

Clean your contacts lazy. The check system is one of the best parts of the e30. Check for shorts while you're at it.

[cwatt]

Clean your contacts lazy. The check system is one of the best parts of the e30. Check for shorts while you're at it.

lol. I'm new to these cars. I've only been driving it for a week, so I'm finding all sorts of things to fix. To confirm, you're referring to the contacts on the back of the little display box on the roof?

[jlevie]

If you are getting a check panel LED when the relevant light isn't on, there is a problem with the relevant check relay, the wiring between that check relay and the check panel, or in the check panel.

However if the an LED only comes on when the relevant light is turned on there likely a different problem. Those warning LED's are triggered by less than normal current flow the that light circuit. That can caused by an aged bulb that has lost material from the filament, the wrong bulb, corrosion in the bulb socket or connector, a bad ground, or damage to the wiring for that circuit. Rarely will it be the relevant check relay module or the check panel.

For the smaller bulbs, like are used in the tail lights, etc., use only Osram bulbs of the correct rating. I routinely get them from my dealer. The taillights are notorious for causing this mostly because the sockets and connectors are in an area that can see moisture build up. The sockets can be cleaned with nothing more abrasive than a brass bristled brush, like a shotgun bore brush.

[StereoInstaller1]

Jim, that whole "Osram only" is just wrong. I assure you BMW never got that kind of accuracy out of a reed switch, the .00003% difference won't matter bulb to bulb.

It is all about the contacts!

[jlevie]

You are certainly entitled to your opinions on Osram vs generic bulbs, But I've fixed more than a few problems like this where new generic plated base bulbs had just been installed by replacing them with Osram bulbs. So I'll stand by my assertion. My theory is that the quality control over the filament isn't as as good and thus the wattage man not be quite right.

[e30construction]

pics othe car?

[StereoInstaller1]

You are certainly entitled to your opinions on Osram vs generic bulbs, But I've fixed more than a few problems like this where new generic plated base bulbs had just been installed by replacing them with Osram bulbs. So I'll stand by my assertion. My theory is that the quality control over the filament isn't as as good and thus the wattage man not be quite right.

Fair enough, and I could certainly see validity to your point.

Wanna try an experiment next one you get with that issue? Scrub the contacts on the check panel diode pack and leave the same bulbs in. I have had success on several cars with that technique and not once have I had the "switch to Osram" thing work. I even got my last set of bulbs from the dealer, but they looked to be the same Osrams I later got from WalMart.

[jlevie]

The first thing I do in a case like this where new bulbs are present is to clean all contact points (bulb socket and connectors). The I'll check the current draw of the circuit and compare that to normal. If a little below normal I'll see if new OE bulbs push it up (they usually do). Most of the time that fixes it, especially when the fault is intermittent.