Took all of the bulbs out yesterday and a few of the bases looked flattened out. There was a bit of pockmarking on the spring steel they touch as well. Getting all new bulbs today to see if that helps, then maybe I'll swap the check panel and see if that does anything.
Location of ground for rear lights? Picture?
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Replaced all the bulbs with new nickel-base ones, tried a different check panel, and all I've managed to do is make the flashing running lights more obvious with the new bulbs. :( Can someone please lead me to a picture of splice 324 and/or ground 300? Is there a separate ground for the third brake light, or is that the same one?Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

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So aside from still not knowing where the ground and splice are, the only thing I thought of that I haven't 100% ruled out is some kind of malfunction in the plates that hold the bulb sockets. I won't be home until Monday, but the last time I tried to remove one it was pretty stubborn. Are the plates generally easy or hard to remove? That might be a hint to a possible issue.Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

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I'm bumping this because I'd still like to see a picture of this ground and/or the splice for the taillights. I've narrowed it down to either a problem here or in the light assemblies themselves, which I can't replace at the moment. Please led me a hand!Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

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These things can be really trying.
I am still trying to figure out my own check panel issue. If I start my car with the brake pedal depressed, the rear lights check panel will not clear untill I turn the car off. If I push the panel button, the check on the dash goes away, but the light on the panel stays lit. But.....if I start the car with my foot off the brake pedal, then press the pedal, it all clears like normal. I have replaced both the check control relay and the check panel itself without change.
Good luck with your issue, mine is kicking my ass.2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLDOriginally posted by codyep3I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
2010 F650gs twin
2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leatherComment
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Have you tried replacing the brake switch?These things can be really trying.
I am still trying to figure out my own check panel issue. If I start my car with the brake pedal depressed, the rear lights check panel will not clear untill I turn the car off. If I push the panel button, the check on the dash goes away, but the light on the panel stays lit. But.....if I start the car with my foot off the brake pedal, then press the pedal, it all clears like normal. I have replaced both the check control relay and the check panel itself without change.
Good luck with your issue, mine is kicking my ass.
I have a similar issue but mine is much more intermittent, some days it will clear fine, others it won't, now I've been a week or so since it last cleared. I have been trying to track this down for the last year. I have replaced the switch and the bulbs and have tried to attack it with a multimeter, but I don't seem to have any voltage or grounding issues.
Does anyone know what the proper resistance is supposed to be across the various circuits? Maybe across the bulbs. That way I could check my lights and see what is up. How do you diagnose the Check Panel to make sure that it isn't the problem?Comment
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Yes, new switch was installed also. I am at a loss2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLDOriginally posted by codyep3I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
2010 F650gs twin
2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leatherComment
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And I assume you have traced the circuit paths as laid out in the ETM?
If yours clears when you don't start the car with your foot on the brake and consistently clears otherwise, then at least it is consistent. It might be worth getting used to starting the car like that.
When I ran new stereo wires I really cleaned up the ground in the back seat and I was hoping that would clear up my issues, as it was pretty corroded. It did nothing for the check panel issue.Comment
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Just in case it's not all in this thread, here's what I've done so far:These things can be really trying.
I am still trying to figure out my own check panel issue. If I start my car with the brake pedal depressed, the rear lights check panel will not clear untill I turn the car off. If I push the panel button, the check on the dash goes away, but the light on the panel stays lit. But.....if I start the car with my foot off the brake pedal, then press the pedal, it all clears like normal. I have replaced both the check control relay and the check panel itself without change.
Good luck with your issue, mine is kicking my ass.
Checked for corrosion in each taillight assembly and third brake light assembly
Checked tightness of bulbs in each assembly
Made sure each bulb had a nickel base, not brass
Replaced EVERY bulb...
Checked, cleaned, and replaced the ground pictured in my earlier post
DISCONNECTED that ground and tried the rear lights, which all continued to work
Searched for a ground splice somewhere near the driver's taillight with no success.
Replaced check panel (but only because the one I had broke)
Maybe there's something in there that might help you.
I think the next thing I'll try is unplugging one taillight assembly and seeing if the other behaves the same or not. I know they have a common ground, but you never know.Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

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:( Nothing?Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

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A bad brake light ground connection will result in the brake lights not working, or power crossfeeding through the tail-light circuit, preventing both tail and brake lights froms working at the same time. Repairing the connection is a project that is well within the range of the do-it-yourselfer. Have a question? Get an answer from a Mechanic now!
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Damnit...I thought I had an actual response. That is a pretty eloquent bot though...Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

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