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ERRR!! overheating 89 325is

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    ERRR!! overheating 89 325is

    Just started getting hot, Noticed the shroud was missing, replaced that. Replaced thermostat and water pump. tried bleeding. New fan clutch. All the hoses are hot so water should be circulating and saw it in the resivoir. I guess next I'll get the radiator cleaned. Just doesnt get hot, it goes in the red!

    Any suggestions I will Gladly try!! Thank you all!!

    #2
    does the heat work? if not you obviously have a trapped air pocket.

    turn heat on high and bleed again make sure the front of the car isn't pointing down hill.

    you are opening the bleeder while bleeding aren't u?

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      #3
      Yes the car is on a slight slope, oh I never turned the heat on!, yes I'm using the bleeder valve on the t-stat housing.. I'll try to bleed again tomarrow and update

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        #4
        Radiator may be clogged up.
        sigpic

        1999 528it - Daily Driver “Dad Wagon”
        1991 325is - 2.8L Budget Stroker Garage Slut
        1991 318is - Sold
        1986 325 - Sold

        Instagram - Lamoursum

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          #5
          Bleed the system by:


          1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
          the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
          on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

          2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
          the bleed.

          3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
          temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
          in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
          up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
          warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
          up the coolant as necessary.

          4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
          several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
          this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
          indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
          repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

          5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
          bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
          few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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            #6
            Thanks everyone!! I have to change the belts, then I will start the bleeding process and post an update:D

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              #7
              Well I did the bleeding process. For the most part a lot better. Its been staying a tad past the middleand fluctuates. So im going to drive some more and bleed again. But I think it could be partially radiator clogg. As it seems to drop in temp when I gas it on and off.

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                #8
                if you are giving gas and you notice more heat is coming out, and then when you let off the gas and you notice the heat cools, then you have air in the system.

                Its always a good idea to flush out the rad, I mean if you were there changing all those parts, wp, thermostat, belts, clutch fan, shroud, hey why not its another 5 mins.

                Anyways, try flushing the rad, and re-install everything, follow the bleeding procedures as stated by jlevie, as he said you may have to bleed a few times here and there.


                if you notice the same problem re-occuring after a few days of having everything perfect, then you should do a coolant pressure test as Air might be getting into the system somewhere
                my build here ---> http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ht=lemans+blue

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