Another no start ........(FIXED)

[amcink]

Fixed
A) Fuel pump - external
B) CPS
C) Battery(battery was bad and when trying to start the car it was not strong enough. Since it was under warranty i got a new one)



86 325e
A) checked both cps both at 940 ohm
B) replace intank fuel pump
C) external pump was humming before the no start problem
D) on position 2 the car seems to turns but does not start
E) the cold start sensor read 35 ohms
F) the temp sensor it has some erradict reading but it reads 34.5
G) battery is good plus i have a charger to help the battery stays at 14v
H) put a new fuel pump realy
I) spray some starting fuel directly into the intake and no start
J) even with a new pump sensor i do not hear the in tank pump and the external pump kick in. No more humming from the external.
K) finnaly i think is the starter
L) some back ground info prior the no start it was dificult to start and in cold mornings did not start only until the weather warms up

Any help is appretiated

[jlevie]

The failure to fire with starter fluid frequently means that there is a lack of spark. That can be bad timing sensors, a DME power/ground issue, bad coil, or bad DME.

Have you checked to make sure the timing belt hasn't broken?

[amcink]

The failure to fire with starter fluid frequently means that there is a lack of spark. That can be bad timing sensors, a DME power/ground issue, bad coil, or bad DME.

Have you checked to make sure the timing belt hasn't broken?

Timing belt was done 300 miles. I will check the timing sensor, however the timing sensor connects to the c101? Bad coil is a good clue

[101]

Check the engine ground strap and other grounding points first. You might get lucky.

Next, do the resistance checks on the coil and make sure the coil is getting +12V when the ignition key is in the on position. No +12V at the coil could be a bad ignition switch or the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil.

If the coil and ignition switch checks out, I'd pull the DME and do all the Bentley manual checks on the pins of the connector at the DME. That way you can diagnose the sensors, injectors and other bits of the system and the engine wiring harness at the same time. If all that checks out, swap the DME if you have a spare lying around.

If still not starting - the crank position sensors can ohm out OK but still be bad. But before replacing them double check that the metal slug that triggers the sensors on the flywheel hasn't gone missing.

[amcink]

"Metal slug"????????

[101]

sorry - there's a more eloquent way of saying that.

Its actually some type of metal pin that is attached to the edge of the flywheel. As the pin passes the crank position sensors, the sensors pick it up and tells the DME the crankshaft position (sensor #1) and the engine speed (sensor #2).

[amcink]

sorry - there's a more eloquent way of saying that.

Its actually some type of metal pin that is attached to the edge of the flywheel. As the pin passes the crank position sensors, the sensors pick it up and tells the DME the crankshaft position (sensor #1) and the engine speed (sensor #2).

Thanks I'll check this after confirming the spark issue and coil situation.

Man it was running excellent and all of a sudden will not start. When these things run they are good. But trouble shooting is a pain and frustration
Will keep looking for the culprit.
Thanks

[amcink]

Check the engine ground strap and other grounding points first. You might get lucky.

Next, do the resistance checks on the coil and make sure the coil is getting +12V when the ignition key is in the on position. No +12V at the coil could be a bad ignition switch or the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil.

If the coil and ignition switch checks out, I'd pull the DME and do all the Bentley manual checks on the pins of the connector at the DME. That way you can diagnose the sensors, injectors and other bits of the system and the engine wiring harness at the same time. If all that checks out, swap the DME if you have a spare lying around.

If still not starting - the crank position sensors can ohm out OK but still be bad. But before replacing them double check that the metal slug that triggers the sensors on the flywheel hasn't gone missing.

I just tested the coil and it's 1.1 ohms between the pos and neg. It is 5550 ohms between the secondary and the positive. Not so much between specs but close enough i guess

i will check the 12v tomorrow

I read on other post to try starting it with the lights on and the lights did not dim and again it tried to start and keeps on cranking (for lack of better word) but does not engage however this time after the third time no more crank or any noise form the starter or solenoid. I made sure my battery was full and had full power. My money is on the starter but need more test to rule out my hunch.

[amcink]

Ok no spark at the spark plug but found some trace of fuel however i still not hear either pump and as you can see the fuse link is fine so I think is the dme. I will look for the Bentley to see how I can test the dme

[amcink]

update. change the main relay and the fuel realy and now i can hear the pump when the car cranks but no start so i will change the coil $67 since it is off the recommended ohms from the bentley (even though it was starting but yes was having hard time to start)

[amcink]

New update - bought the coil from Autozone and they had a Bosch "new" in the box.
I tested with my multimeter and they tested with their multimeter and it was worst than the bad one I have; so I ordered it from Autohausaz, waiting to arrived

[Exodus_2pt0]

Have you checked to make sure the timing belt hasn't broken?

.... Curious as well.

[amcink]

.... Curious as well.

As mention before the belt has only 300 miles. It's new

[jlevie]

As mention before the belt has only 300 miles. It's new

But have you checked to see that it is good?

[amcink]

My engine bay. The next two photos shows the area were you can see the TB and I'm poking the TB with small metal thing. Therefore NO broken TB