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Delete oil pan cork gasket and just use sealant?

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    Delete oil pan cork gasket and just use sealant?

    Arrrgh! I've replaced my oil pan gasket 3 times and it still leaks. Tried it once with a tacky, non hardening goo+cork, then nothing but the cork, then with a quick-drying type+cork, and it STILL leaks from the front pass. side corner. It's definitely the oil pan. Has anyone used something like Permatex Super Black OE gasket maker. It has gap-filling properties and I wonder if it might just do the trick-maybe the pan's not perfectly straight. I hate leaks-this is the only thing on this car that does...:(

    #2
    I am also in search for an alternative to the cork gasket. BMA sells a paper one, think i might try that one out. anyone had one of those on their car?

    As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
    You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.

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      #3
      I have used the black stuff in a pressurized can (like cheez wiz) to excellent results, but have not yet done an e30 pan.

      Whatever you do, post it here!

      luke

      Closing SOON!
      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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        #4
        Originally posted by madjurgen
        I am also in search for an alternative to the cork gasket. BMA sells a paper one, think i might try that one out. anyone had one of those on their car?
        Actually, the one I recieved from BMA is a rubber like gasket.

        Have you checked the pan's mating surface or the block's mating surface for scratches or gouges? Also, have you check the offending area of the pan for hair line cracks?

        One more thing to check is to make sure it's absolutely positively the gasket leaking and not the rear main seal.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Ritalin Kid
          Actually, the one I recieved from BMA is a rubber like gasket.

          Have you checked the pan's mating surface or the block's mating surface for scratches or gouges? Also, have you check the offending area of the pan for hair line cracks?

          One more thing to check is to make sure it's absolutely positively the gasket leaking and not the rear main seal.
          All the other seals in the motor are new as well. I did the clutch recently, and the area around the rear of the pan was dry. I just did the t-belt and that seal was dry and clean as well. Intermediate shaft seal is fine. I've got the very, very slight head gasket seepage at the front of the block, but it is inconsequential. A drop or so a week...

          The only other place that it could be that I've not yet disassembled is the aluminum piece on the front of the block. I suppose it could be seeping form there, but then I don't know why the character of the leak would change with the oil pan gasket. It's definitely worse after the last attempt.

          I think I'll pull the pan again and use some of this stuff and see what happens. Problem is getting the oil pump reinstalled without disturbing the sealant. S'pose I'll have to drop the subframe after all...

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            #6
            I would bet hondabond would do great, but I also bet bmw makes their own alternative.

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              #7
              it's perfectly fine to use gasket-maker instead of the cork oem one. one thing to watch out for is the oil pump interfering with the oil pan since deleting the cork gasket will lower that tolerance. you will probably be fine, but worth keeping in the back of your head. also, don't OVER goop on the sealer as it will run down inside the oil pan.
              James
              '88 M3

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                #8
                Originally posted by Old'n'Slow
                All the other seals in the motor are new as well. I did the clutch recently, and the area around the rear of the pan was dry. I just did the t-belt and that seal was dry and clean as well. Intermediate shaft seal is fine. I've got the very, very slight head gasket seepage at the front of the block, but it is inconsequential. A drop or so a week...

                The only other place that it could be that I've not yet disassembled is the aluminum piece on the front of the block. I suppose it could be seeping form there, but then I don't know why the character of the leak would change with the oil pan gasket. It's definitely worse after the last attempt.

                I think I'll pull the pan again and use some of this stuff and see what happens. Problem is getting the oil pump reinstalled without disturbing the sealant. S'pose I'll have to drop the subframe after all...

                My bad.. for some reason I was thinking rear passenger side corner.. isn't there another gasket that has to do with where the oil filter sits that can seep?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ritalin Kid
                  Actually, the one I recieved from BMA is a rubber like gasket.
                  So howd it work out for you? Any leaking?
                  Last edited by madjurgen; 01-09-2006, 12:48 PM.

                  As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
                  You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hylomar is your friend.

                    James

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                      #11
                      I have the cork gasket waiting to install, but one of the shops I visited recommended the paper one which was much stronger. I would think that the paper one would hold up better.
                      Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
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                        #12
                        Originally posted by madjurgen
                        So howd it work out for you? Any leaking?
                        Have you replaced your oilpan gasket before? I want to change mine out sometime since it developing a small leak.
                        Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
                        http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5...ps6debf0b0.jpg

                        Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                          #13
                          FWIW I've not had much luck with getting cork oil pan gaskets to seal well either. I've had a few warrenty jobs replacing leakers :/

                          Anyways you are supposed to install a cork gasket dry, no sealant. No oil mst be present. Also overtightening the bolts will split the gasket and make it leak as well.

                          That said when I did my head swap I put a new oil pan on for my oil seperation system and installed a paper oil pan gasket from BMA. I used anarobic sealer on both sides and it does not seep a micro of oil.
                          Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast

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                            #14
                            With cork gaskets, contact sement is the best stuff to use. Just put a thin layrer on each side of the gasket and on the oil pan and block, let it dry to tacky and stick it on. Then just make sure you don't overtighten the bolts.

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                              #15
                              not just dont overtighten, torque equally and slowly to spec without doing them in a row.

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