eta head

[Bav///Motorworks]

k after looking around here and there i'm deciding to go and build up this motor...
what i'm thinkin of doing is just building the head... the power lies in the head since its so restrictive. i'm thinkin port and polishing the head, ground the cams and have custom built valves to go with it... i'll be using the I intake manifold and soon to make a custom intake manifold with short runners and a better design. also i will be getting the bavauto long tube header system and a full cat back... let me know what you guys think

thx

[rede30]

i think i would be better to just get a "i" head and do the work with that. A head can be found for dirt cheap now a days just keep looking on the forum. If you were local i would say come pull a head i have on and engine and give me 20 dollers. you can make a nice motor with the "i" head and eta crank so look into that before you rock the m20b27

[SpecM]

-Yeah if you don't mind a 7.9:1 CR....

[Bav///Motorworks]

n i would need to go get the super eta pistons to run that head...
i just wanna do something diff... i just wanna build up the eta motor.. yes i said it ETA. i think the I is just overated. i'll get some power out of my eta

[SpecM]

-Some guy on this board put b25i valves (bigger), springs (x2) and cam (hotter) in an eta head and is making decient power with it. I think he has a Motronic 1.1 harness swap too, iirc. Forgot his name. Search.

-EDIT: "EtaSport" is his name. Good thread about etas

[EtaSport]

hehe.. thats me. I know im not the first, but I've got some people believing in this setup.

I dont know how far you can take the ports. I got mine close to i size using i gaskets to match, but I also didnt want to kill my fuel milage. If I did it again, I would go farther. There is a lot you can take from the exhaust side. Also if you put larger valves in you will find yourself some power, but it will probably cost $$$. Go with the dual springs, 3 angle grind, oil journals drilled to run a 7 bearing cam, and mil the head a little. You will also need to change software since you will be making horsepower now, and you need to be in the R's to find it. Best thing to do is ditch 1.0 and get 1.3 or MegaSquirt N spark. You'll probably spend the same on both.

IMO it might be best to find not an I head, but a ...731 casting head from a 323i m20. It has i sized ports, 264 cam, strong single springs, but eta sized valves. It will supposedly yield around 9.8:1 compression on an eta.

[Bav///Motorworks]

so i if i changed the software than i have to ditch the JC chip... idk i kinda wanted everything stock ya kno? stock parts atleast? no mix matching parts from another car.. i want my motor faster with the motor it came with, idk thats what i just want to do. do i have to change the software tho?

[PeaveyBassist]

eta block + i head + turbo

Will

[EtaSport]

You can keep all your eta parts, but its not going to be fast. I picked up a large increase when I swapped the motronic. With a 274 cam and all my head mods, I really didnt notice that much of an increase. Even with a 5300 rpm redline your not going to make nearly as much power as you will at 6500. The 1.3 changes the fuel and timing curves and is desgined to make more horsepower. I dont think the chip will make up the difference. You'd be better off doing bolt ons and saving your money in that case.

[PeaveyBassist]

Factory eta will always be slow. Unless you put it in a go kart.

Will