So I"m sitting at idle at a stop light and I switch the heat on just for shits and grins since I thought it was not working. Well to my suprise it works. STEAMY HOT AIR. I mean man I'm stoked cause its FRIGID outside. So I leave it on and take off..... within a few seconds of leaving the light the air is cold as tits. WTF is goin on? Antifreeze is full and car seems to be running at the proper temperature according to the gauge. Come to another light and its hot air again. Pull off and cold again. Yeah.... uhhh?
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Hot air at idle.... cold air at speed? WTF????
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Air pocket. Bleed the system a couple times and make sure its all good. Then check back with me. lol
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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Heater hoses COULD be a little clogged or something maybe... But I wouldnt go through the trouble in looking unless I knew that was it... I had symptoms opposite of that. Hot air when rolling, or with revved up, but not at idle. It was an air pocket. I dunno what else it could be. Sorry mang.
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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Well from the handy dandy Bentley:
Low heater output could be cause by a faulty heater valve, mis adjusted blending flap cable (one of the controls) or a cooling system fault.
It sounds like your cooling system is operating normal. Do you ever smell anti-freeze or get super fogged up windows? If not Id be going for the valve and control cables.
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It ended up being a set of reversed lines to the heater core. I guess one of the PO's had reversed them. This problem was accompanied by a "ticking" that came from under the dash at low rpm that I attributed to a faulty tach gauge. In all actuality this was the pressure switch shutting the valve to the heater core. Thus after a few seconds of air blowing accross the heater core, it went cold. At idle the valve would return to normal due to the lowered pressure and would supply new hot coolant to the core and thus the hot air again. A 5 minute fix (would have been 2 without a strut bar in the way) and now my toes are toasty warm. On to the next project :D
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Originally posted by marakkaIt ended up being a set of reversed lines to the heater core. I guess one of the PO's had reversed them. This problem was accompanied by a "ticking" that came from under the dash at low rpm that I attributed to a faulty tach gauge. In all actuality this was the pressure switch shutting the valve to the heater core. Thus after a few seconds of air blowing accross the heater core, it went cold. At idle the valve would return to normal due to the lowered pressure and would supply new hot coolant to the core and thus the hot air again. A 5 minute fix (would have been 2 without a strut bar in the way) and now my toes are toasty warm. On to the next project :D
What i said then
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