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    Kill switch resistor setup

    Anyone have an installed picture of how they wired the resistor on the bimmerworld style kill switch? The switch will be placed on my cage at the passenger side harness bar/main hoop junction.

    I understand what gets wired to what (e.g., the spade terminal on the switch that you connect the resistor line to) but given the shape/size of the 3 ohm resistor and its thin wires I want see a picture of the end result of the connections from switch to resistor to ground. It would help to have a picture of how folks with my placement of the switch on the cage are running the resistor, if you shrink tube the resistor or leave it open, the find ground wire location, etc.

    Thanks.
    1990 325i: slippery slope from DD/DE car to SE30/ITS
    1991 318is: raw DD
    2004 330i zhp: civilized daily driver

    #2
    I ground the resistor to the cage very close to the kill switch. There is no need to insulate the resistor since it will only be powered for a few seconds as the engine spins down. The other side of the resistor section of the switch gets tied to the engine side of the main power lugs of the kill switch.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      Thanks!
      1990 325i: slippery slope from DD/DE car to SE30/ITS
      1991 318is: raw DD
      2004 330i zhp: civilized daily driver

      Comment


        #4
        What is the point of said resistor? Never heard of this before.

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          #5
          When you flip the kill switch on a running engine the battery is disconnected from the rest of the car. That removes the current sink and feed back for alternator and can cause the alternator to spike well above normal. Since all of the electronics in the car are on the engine side of the kill switch there is a risk of damage from that spike. The resistor proves a current sink as the alternator spins down.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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