boiling coolant help plz!

[e30 vert]

hi

so after i saw the coolant is boiling and steam coming out res tank and i find a coolant leaking inside(driver side) the car i thought the heater valve is leaking and causing low pressure in

coolant system so today i bypass the heater valve by connecting the 2 coolant hose before hv together but it didnt solve the problem but this time i saw steam coming out from back of

the engine and less steam from res tank as my tem gauge doesn't work i couldn't see how hot the engine is also the check engine light came on and after a few min car stalled .when the engine was running i check the upper

rad hose it was hot but soft i did some research but couldnt find right answer for it and how to inspecting a water pump and thermo

any idea what it could be and how to inspect those parts

its a 92 vert with m42 and i didn't drive it engine was on idle

thanks

[vpilarrt]

First thing to do is fix your temp gauge - its critical to the life of your engine.
Second thing is to check the fan clutch.
Third thing is just to go ahead and replace the thermostat and bleed the cooling system.
Water pumps do not wear out but they can fail - either the seal leaks (you'll see antifreeze running out around the shaft) or the impellar breaks, if it has a plastic one.

[Vtec?lol]

you introduced air in the engine and now it needs bleeding. If you have an M20 be prepared to sit out there for a while and bleed. your temp gauge isn't working because you have a large pocket of air in the head.

[dnguyen1963]

I would be really worried about "steam coming out at the back of the engine". Have you located the leak location? There should not be any steam coming out of your engine unless you have a leaky HG.

[series88]

where are you located?

[dnguyen1963]

Who, me? Madison, WI.

[e30 vert]

where are you located?

east bay, pleasanton

[e30 vert]

ok so today i replace the bad fan clutch but still the steam was coming out the bleed screw!

[Vtec?lol]

yeah. Steam will come out until it has the proper amount of coolant and the air has left the system.
you need to take the top radiator hose off the radiator and fill it to the top. Then fill the radiator till it runs from the top. Put back together, warm up, bleed. Keep doing it until the heater blows hot ai and the screw bleeds a steady stream. You must also have he front of the car jacked up or on an incline.

[dnguyen1963]

Use the search function! Jlevie has posted the procedure so many times...

[e30 vert]

Use the search function! Jlevie has posted the procedure so many times...

well im doing research for 2 weeks now but i cant find a right answer and driving me nuts

can you post a link or something i appreciate it

[e30 vert]

yeah. Steam will come out until it has the proper amount of coolant and the air has left the system.
you need to take the top radiator hose off the radiator and fill it to the top. Then fill the radiator till it runs from the top. Put back together, warm up, bleed. Keep doing it until the heater blows hot ai and the screw bleeds a steady stream. You must also have he front of the car jacked up or on an incline.

i bay pass the heater valve cuz it was leaking inside the car does it effect the bleeding process ?

[e30 vert]

how many bleed screw does the radiator have?

[dnguyen1963]

how many bleed screw does the radiator have?

One and it's on the t-stat housing, not the radiator. Here is the procedure...

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

Then find out if the engine is actually running hot by checking the head temperature with a contact or IR thermometer. With an 80C thermostat the head should be 80-83C.

If the engine is running hot only at idle, the fan clutch and radiator are suspects. But if it runs hot when being driven at 35mph or more, the radiator becomes the prime suspect.

[e30 vert]

One and it's on the t-stat housing, not the radiator. Here is the procedure...

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

Then find out if the engine is actually running hot by checking the head temperature with a contact or IR thermometer. With an 80C thermostat the head should be 80-83C.

If the engine is running hot only at idle, the fan clutch and radiator are suspects. But if it runs hot when being driven at 35mph or more, the radiator becomes the prime suspect.

thanks a lot for your help

there was A LOT OF air in the system no more boiling coolant