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    Clutch

    Hey guys, my clutch is about dead. I'd say about 2 more months on it. It's starting to not work right. I had the clutch all the way down to the floor and I put it in 1st gear and it just stalled. so yeah. but anyways.

    What kind of clutch should I be looking at to buy?

    OEM? Aftermarket? Performance? I dont want to spend over 400 dollars. I'm limited on money, since I'm poor right now, haha. So like, yeah. Keep in mind I dont have much money before you start saying all these performance parts that cost too much.

    #2
    Sachs kit from BMA Auto Parts. The kit does not include a clutch alignment tool. You may have to find one of those locally.

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      #3
      what about like a plucked clutch? haha I guess thats what you would call it
      ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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        #4
        Describe what happened with the stalling in more detail. You may have a hydrolics problem. You push the clutch all the way, put it in gear, and a few seconds later it stalls? As if you released the clutch?

        Does the clutch slip if you hit the gas on the freeway without touching the clutch pedal?
        Adam Fogg- '88 M3

        Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'

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          #5
          his clutch is about dead. doesn't grab nearly like it used to when i had the car. it slips a bit, but not a whole bunch. i'd say he has a little life left in the clutch (maybe a few months). i think bavauto sells and entire kit with new tranny seals, rear engine seals, pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot bearings, master/slave cylinders, etc for somethin like ~$385. it also comes with the alignment tool.
          173rd ABN

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            #6
            I also recommend the BavAuto.com clutch replacement kit since it comes with everything you need (including the clutch alignment tool) to replace the clutch and replace all your seals while you're at it.

            If you want a slightly better clutch disk you can request everything but the clutch disc if you call BavAuto and order the clutch disc elsewhere. (ie. Centerforce dual friction, Sach's Sport, etc..)

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              #7
              with a completely stock motor 318is (minus a chip and intake), i dont think he really needs a performance clutch. an oem should do just fine.
              173rd ABN

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                #8
                Sounds more like a dead master/slave cylinder than a worn clutch to me. If it doesn't slip and stalls when you push the pedal, then I'd check hydraulics first.

                my 2cents

                James

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                  #9
                  So if it slips its def the clutch? Not to hijack, but its extremely hard for me to put it in first gear on cold mornings and its all "grindy". Is this a good way to test for slippage: rev to above ~3000rpm with the car in gear and the clutch in, let the clutch out, then quickly put it back in? If the trans doesnt engage and the car doesnt move then its slipping correct?

                  As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
                  You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.

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                    #10
                    Sounds like hydraulic problems to me.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by madjurgen
                      So if it slips its def the clutch? Not to hijack, but its extremely hard for me to put it in first gear on cold mornings and its all "grindy". Is this a good way to test for slippage: rev to above ~3000rpm with the car in gear and the clutch in, let the clutch out, then quickly put it back in? If the trans doesnt engage and the car doesnt move then its slipping correct?
                      That's not slippage, that's just a cold getrag gearbox. Most if not all E30's do this. Redline fluid can alleviate some of this.

                      Slippage is usually noticable when your revs are climbing but you're not accelerating like you should or your revs are abnormally high for the gear/speed you are in.

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                        #12
                        well since all that shit will need replacing when he does a clutch, we'll just change the master/slave cylinder first and see if that helps. keep in mind this clutch is original at ~210,000 miles so it couldnt hurt to get replaced.
                        173rd ABN

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by asubimmer
                          what about like a plucked clutch? haha I guess thats what you would call it
                          I drove a '95 talon tsi with a four-puck clutch, and it was damn near impossible to use in stop-and-go traffic.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Bokes
                            well since all that shit will need replacing when he does a clutch, we'll just change the master/slave cylinder first and see if that helps. keep in mind this clutch is original at ~210,000 miles so it couldnt hurt to get replaced.
                            If treated right, BMW clutchs on a stock M20 should last +300K

                            James

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Bokes
                              with a completely stock motor 318is (minus a chip and intake), i dont think he really needs a performance clutch. an oem should do just fine.
                              ohh I ment for my turbo project not his car ;)
                              ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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