Getting hot at stops

[e30construction]

well i just did my tbelt,waterpump,and put another fan and fan clutch in cus my fan got busted..after we changed everything and started bleeding the air from the coolant system the air was taking forever to come completly out and the car kept wanting to go over the halfway mark..everytime it did this we shut her off and tried again..we finally got it out and i didnt have any trouble driving an hour and a half home..but im starting to notice now that im driving it more that when im at idle sitting at a light or drive thru or w.e that she is still wanting to get hot..for instance i drove to the store today and let the car idle while i went in, when i came back the temp gauge was pretty much on the third line,but when i drive it it goes all the way back down to a little after the first line..before i did the tbelt and everything the needle never went above the middle mark..can anyone offer any suggestions on what i should do thanks alot

[mr.vang]

your clutch fan is out

[e30mpg]

still have air in your system, rebleed

[IRON-E]

your clutch fan is out

still have air in your system, rebleed

+1 on boff

[e30construction]

still have air in your system, rebleed

your clutch fan is out

the clutch fan was very firm so im thinking it is in pretty good shape,,it is a possibility though since it was bought used and the evidence does point to it since it heats up at idle but cools tremendously when moving..and i was thinking i may still have air in the system..any tricks to doing it? i know how just wondering if theres any tricks u guys do to make it easier/fool proof

[e30construction]

and a quick question on bleeding it..First fill the cooling system with the bleeder screw open. When you see the water coming out of the bleeder screw stop filling up the system and close the bleeder screw. START the car let it idle for about a minute, then open the bleeder screw and keep it open until you only see fluid coming out with no bubbles. Close the bleeder screw and take off the coolant overflow tank cap. When the thermostat opens at operating temperature the overflow tank will bleed itself. If your bleeder screw is broken/seized/whatever, you can use the latter to fully bleed your system without opening the bleeder screw. While doing all this have the heater on full heat and full blast...do i leave the car running after the first capitol START or shut it back off

[peytonracer4]

are you 100% positive your car is actually heating up? my car will do this sometimes when sitting still and i just hit my cluster. the temp gauge then goes back to just below center. i think i have a grounding issue with my cluster. all other gauges function just fine.

also, did you replace the fan clutch with a new unit?

[rav320uk]

After a system bleed, when you fill; back up with fluid, turn the heaters on to FULL HOT and FULL FAN.
Does the air blow hot or cold???
If cold, then it's a block in the system.
If HOT, then it looks to be your NEW fan clutch is faulty.

One sure way of testing the fan clutch is by using a rolled up newspaper.
Get the car warm, and see if the newspaper will stop the fan, if it rips the paper up, then all is ok, if it stops the fan, the new item is definitely faulty.

If all is well, try jacking the front of the car up and bleeding the system that way.

[e30construction]

the fan clutch i got was used but was very stiff and seemed to be ok to me but ill do the newspaper test and try to rebleed..ive never had any issue with my cluster doing this before and the si bats are brand new and was looked offer for any imperfections by gregs///m so im thinking it is actually getting hot

[jlevie]

Because the gauge drifts up and then back down once the car starts moving, I think it is safe to say that the gauge is working properly.

Bleed the system by:

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

[e30construction]

update: went out and took the new/used fan clutch off and turns out its really loose now, when i first got it it was pretty stiff so idk maybe it was messed with to get it sold..im getting ready to try bleeding the system again so hopefully its not to big off a deal..and can anyone point me in the direction of a diy for replacing the thermostat cus i figured i might as well get it switched out

[e30construction]

well i tried bleeding the sytem..got nothing but liguid coming out as well as the heater blowing hot air..let the car idle for a while and it still started creeping over the half mark but when i reved it it would drop back down between 1/4 and 1/2 so idk what to do..im thinking i may need a new tstat..anyone have any ideas?

[e30mpg]

still have air in the system, this is what i did when bleeding these m20

1. jack up front 1-2", then start up the car let it warm up with cap and bleeder closed.
2. Turn on heater high
3. when it warm up, open up the bleeder screw till no more air comes out just liquid, then close
4. open the res. cap and top off coolant
5. Locate the small hose that goes from radiator to res. and lift up the middle of the hose so it's higher then the bleeder screw. You should see bunch of bubbles coming out.
6. r3v idle to 1500-2000 rpm for 5-10 sec
7. Go back out to the engine bay and repeat step #5 till no more bubbles come out, top off coolant as needed.
8. Get in your car, get on the highway and gun it a few times then go home park with uphill incline and repeat #5 again. GL

[e30construction]

ok thanks for everyones help..i will do this tomorrow and hope it works..one last thing i need to ask..my firsst fan was a 11 blade fan and the one i bought is a 9 blade fan..would that make any difference?

[rav320uk]

ok thanks for everyones help..i will do this tomorrow and hope it works..one last thing i need to ask..my firsst fan was a 11 blade fan and the one i bought is a 9 blade fan..would that make any difference?

Ask your G/f if your dick shrunk 2" would it make a difference dude.,.....