So heres the deal.
Since I have had the car my gas gauge has always fluctuated, it is never registered full and never registered empty. It never jumped around, it would sort of just sit wherever in no relation to how much fuel I had in my tank. The empty tank light does work so I have always relied on that.
Drivers side sender had ohms jumping all over the place so I replaced that one with another one where the ohms would steadily increase or decrease if I tipped the sender so I assumed this one was good. The passenger side seemed fine but I pulled one from the junk yard anyway along with an early model fuel gauge since I have heard that could be a problem too.
1st try:
I replaced just the drivers side sender and now the gauge sits on empty and SLOWLY (took 3 min) crept up to half way, it should be reading almost full.
2nd Try:
I replaced the passenger side sender and sits at empty, it is just above red.
3rd Try:
So I pulled the gauge and installed the early model and same thing, just sits above empty.
4th Try:
I pull both senders and let them dry. I then plug them in and turn them upside down to mimick a full tank and the gauge sits at 3/4 and as I turn them the gauge seems to respond but as soon as I put them in the tank it is back down to sitting at empty on the gauge.
I have switched out and done every combination and I can never get it to read full when I have them pulled out and they always sit at empty when installed in the tank.
Is there any way to tell if there is a short or to tell if all the correct ohmage (is that even a word?) is getting to the gauge.
I am a total newb when it comes to multimeters but I watched a couple videos so I think I am getting the correct read out. I am measuring the senders when they are unplugged, is there somewhere I should be measuring when they are plugged in? I get like 5ohms on the low end and like 85 on the high end on each sender.
Since I have had the car my gas gauge has always fluctuated, it is never registered full and never registered empty. It never jumped around, it would sort of just sit wherever in no relation to how much fuel I had in my tank. The empty tank light does work so I have always relied on that.
Drivers side sender had ohms jumping all over the place so I replaced that one with another one where the ohms would steadily increase or decrease if I tipped the sender so I assumed this one was good. The passenger side seemed fine but I pulled one from the junk yard anyway along with an early model fuel gauge since I have heard that could be a problem too.
1st try:
I replaced just the drivers side sender and now the gauge sits on empty and SLOWLY (took 3 min) crept up to half way, it should be reading almost full.
2nd Try:
I replaced the passenger side sender and sits at empty, it is just above red.
3rd Try:
So I pulled the gauge and installed the early model and same thing, just sits above empty.
4th Try:
I pull both senders and let them dry. I then plug them in and turn them upside down to mimick a full tank and the gauge sits at 3/4 and as I turn them the gauge seems to respond but as soon as I put them in the tank it is back down to sitting at empty on the gauge.
I have switched out and done every combination and I can never get it to read full when I have them pulled out and they always sit at empty when installed in the tank.
Is there any way to tell if there is a short or to tell if all the correct ohmage (is that even a word?) is getting to the gauge.
I am a total newb when it comes to multimeters but I watched a couple videos so I think I am getting the correct read out. I am measuring the senders when they are unplugged, is there somewhere I should be measuring when they are plugged in? I get like 5ohms on the low end and like 85 on the high end on each sender.
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