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Finished Refurbing injectors .. Car running rough Cut/broken wire???

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    Finished Refurbing injectors .. Car running rough Cut/broken wire???

    Ok just got done refurbing my injectors. the car feels like its missfiring or not firing on all cylinders.. i had 2 connectors mixed up and fixed that issue.. then i found a thick wire under the intake manifold that goes to where the OBD connector/oil reset light is.. i can not find for the life of me what this wire goes to but i never noticed it before and the car never ran this badly before i did the injectors...

    pics
    it would be the connector on the right side of this picture


    back side of the connector/broken wire side


    broken wire.. it was looped under and up through the thermostat housing and went under the intake manifold.. it has the number 0356914212 and on the body of the wire it has this number 17173731887 on the body of the wire i can not find these part numbers anywhere online



    i dont know if this wire has anything to do with the running rough after redoing the injectors.. but i replaced all orings and pintle caps as well as spacers on the fuel injectors.. all of the injector connectors are connected to their respective injector...when i unplug spark plug number 2 it makes no difference in the way it runs but all the other spark plug wires being pulled will make the car run even more rough...I really need this fixed any ideas? any opinions? i want to eliminate this broken/cut wire of being the culprit for running rough or not...need to drive the car to work tomorrow ugh

    #2
    google is now telling me its a RPM sensor and or Crank sensor????? wtf how could the car start with no crank sensor connected?? is this correct or is google being a fuck face?

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      #3
      ok nevermind i figured it out, it's the pulse sensor that is supposed to be attached to apparently spark plug wire #6 because thats where the other end is attached too.. but this broken wire was completely un related to my running rough condition because when i restarted the car after disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, it seems to be running like a top now...

      how the fuck is my car now running so good with the pulse sensor/generator completely broken? doesnt that help adjust ignition timing? this thing has been broken since well before i purchased the car.. can anyone explain to me what the side effects of a broken pulse sensor would be? the car sometimes bucks on deceleration and it sometimes cuts out at wide open throttle and nearly stalls could these two issues be related to this broken pulse sensor?

      Comment


        #4
        My understanding is the car will run ok without the inductive pick up wire but not well, if you noticed a sudden change in idle quality or driveability I would suspect something you disturbed while doing injectors. There could be a wiring issue In the harness in the area you messed with or another place. If you have a noid light you can test the injectors to be sure they are firing
        Shawn @ Bimmerbuddies
        Bimmerbuddies LLC
        717-388-1256
        2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057
        bimmerbuddiesllc@gmail.com

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          #5
          all the injectors are firing the car is now running better than it was before i did the injectors and the cat, which were both done today. Now i'm wondering about this pulse sensor/inductive pick up thing. and I'm curious as to whether it and the bad condition of my plug wires in general, have anything to do with the issues the car had when i bought it and still has to this day.

          while doing the fuel injectors i noticed 2 manifold bolts were completely loose, an obvious leak. i tightened one as much as i could but the other i'll have to get during daylight cause it doesnt even look like a socket will fit over it but we'll see.

          since i bought the car it's had an extremely random and rare complete cut off at WOT around 3,500 or higher rpms feels like i hit a brick wall then the car has zero power immediately after the cutout and as soon as i try to get it to "go" it will stall. this has happened twice in the middle of an intersection both times in 2nd gear at about 3,500 or higher rpms.. the car has also ALWAYS had very jerky deceleration almost to the point of bucking, though it has gotten much better after doing lots of the maintenance that i've done. The catalytic converter made the biggest difference in this issue, so currently it still has jerky deceleration but it is much much less intense than before almost unnoticeable but obviously i notice it.. it's always had a kind of fuel smell to the exhaust and has always had a very minimal almost unnoticeable misfire, the idle has always been rough but its 99% cured at the moment sometimes it will idle extremely steady at 600rpms and most of the time it will be right at 750-800rpms steady so i'm satisfied with the idle currently

          cylinder #2 spark plug wire when pulled makes no change in idle but every other spark plug does..

          the inductive pickup has been broken since before the car was purchased a few months ago. I've replaced the leaky cat replaced the spark plugs, did the timing belt, valve adjustment, cleaned icv etc.. spark plug wires are shot and need to be replaced the car currently gets around 8.9L/100KM highway and 12.3L/100km mixed highway city not terrible but not the best.. every issue i described above has gotten soo much better than it was when i got it but still somewhat noticeable. when i disconnect o2 sensor there is no change to the way the car runs, and it looks old, i'll be replacing this as well as the plug wires and see where i'm at then, i have a smoke test scheduled for later this week hopefully i can get the loose intake manifold bolts tightened before then haha... sigh, gotta love previous owners
          Last edited by NeedaE30; 08-20-2013, 12:40 AM.

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            #6
            It sounds to me that you need new plug wires. Replacement set should come with the inductive pickup wire and connector attached.

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              #7
              Definitely time for new plug wires. Just for kicks you can check how old the plug wires are on the coil cover, should be the last two digits of the year and tick marks for the month. Mine looked fine but were the original 20 year old wires. Check your distributor cap and rotor as well, look for any corrosion or arcing as well as the build dates. Might as well replace them if they don't look good.

              Just curious, what cat did you go with?
              1992 325ic, Alpine over Indigo.

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