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E30 = Allergic to Oil?

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    E30 = Allergic to Oil?

    I've replaced just about every damn seal I can think of on this car and it seems that once I fix an oil leak from one gasket another pops up somewhere else.

    I came home from work and I noticed the E30 had left two very small drops of oil on the concrete. One of the two is a slight rear main seal leak I'm waiting to repair when things warm up.

    The second one was right under the oil filter. And as you can see in the picture it's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from.








    WTF!?!?!?! Are these car allergic to oil or something?

    #2
    Looks like you need to remove the oil cooler housing and completely rebuild it.

    They are prone to leakage.


    E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
    https://mtechniqueauto.com/

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      #3
      Fuckin' A...

      How much are we talking about to rebuild it and where's the best place to get the parts to rebuild it?

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        #4
        What other gaskets/seals have been leaking? High crankcase pressure will cause oil leaks all over the place.

        Jordan is probably right though, you need to rebuild you oil filter housing. That is, unless you didn't lube the oil filter seal when you put it in.
        '91 318is
        sigpic

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          #5
          Bavarian Autosport sells a rebuild kit. Its just a bunch of orings and such.

          Not too hard. Can be a bitch to get the oil cooler thermostat end cap/sealing ring snapped back in though.


          E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
          https://mtechniqueauto.com/

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            #6
            It looks just about like my oil filter housing looked like before I rebuilt it. In addition to the rebuild kit you will need a few other parts not included in the kit, which rebuilds only the temp thermostat in the oil filter housing.

            Part Qty Description
            ---------------------------------------------------------
            11429059338 1 Oil Filter Housing Rebuild Kit
            11421265670 1 O-Ring, Oil Filter Housing to Block
            11421714764 1 O-Ring, Oil Filter Housing Mounting Bolt
            07119963384 1 Gasket Ring, Mounting Bolt, A24X29-AL
            07119963441 1 Gasket Ring, Mounting Bolt, A27X32-AL
            17222245358 2 O-Ring, Oil Cooler Lines

            For some reason the ETK lists two different gasket rings for the mounting bolt. I ordered both as they were cheap and cannot remember which one I ended up using. Pelican Parts has all of these in their online catalog. And I agree with Jordan, it can be a bitch to get the oil thermostat end cap back on.
            Last edited by MarkH; 02-14-2006, 05:26 PM.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Jordan
              Bavarian Autosport sells a rebuild kit. Its just a bunch of orings and such.

              Not too hard. Can be a bitch to get the oil cooler thermostat end cap/sealing ring snapped back in though.
              Jordo speaks the truth. My wife's 325i did the same thing. The kit was dirt cheap, and I rebuilt the whole thing in 20 minutes in my driveway.

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                #8
                too bad i used to have 1 or 2 layin around but couldnt sell them so i junked them
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                Originally posted by TimKninja
                Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Brew
                  What other gaskets/seals have been leaking? High crankcase pressure will cause oil leaks all over the place.
                  When I bought the car most all your typical gaskets and seals were leaking. (Oil Pan, Valve Cover, Cam Seal, Rear Main) from years of neglect. I replaced the rear main seal when doing the 5 speed swap but I have been told that a new one will leak if you do not properly prep the seal, the crank, and area it's seated in it will start leaking again.

                  Any special tools required for the rebuild or is it just a general break down and replacement of seals like the diagram on RealOEM.com shows?

                  EDIT: Is this the kit you guys are talking about @ BavAuto.com?

                  Part#: 11429059338 Oil Filter Housing Repair Kit $7.95
                  Last edited by RobertK; 02-15-2006, 07:24 AM.

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                    #10
                    Yes, but that kit is only the parts to rebuild the oil cooler thermostat in the oil filter housing. Read my earlier post for a complete list of the parts needed to completely rebuild the oil filter housing with new seals.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Jordan
                      Looks like you need to remove the oil cooler housing and completely rebuild it.

                      They are prone to leakage.
                      you don't need to rebuild it. it is just the seal at the bottom there where it looks like you or someone put some RTV. i replaced mine in like 45 minutes. it's really easy.

                      http://e30.bmwdiy.info/oil-leak/index.html

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by SeattleKid
                        you don't need to rebuild it. it is just the seal at the bottom there where it looks like you or someone put some RTV. i replaced mine in like 45 minutes. it's really easy.
                        If you look close enough it's also leaking from where the oil filter is (and yes I know how to put an oil filter on correctly). Also, where you see the RTV the oil is actually coming from above and down the side. Actually, the entire area around where the oil filter housing has some amount of oil seepage.

                        I think I'll go for the rebuild and that way I can get everything taken care of at once. Atleast there will be that many more places it won't leak from.

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                          #13
                          kinda OT, but are the K&N oil filters any good? is there a way to tell?
                          Claus Luthe is my hero.

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                            #14
                            I like them because they have a 1" wrench nut notched welded to the top of the filter so they're easier to remove in tight places. (like under the exhaust manifold of the M20). They're supposed to be a higher flow filter designed for synthetics and it's only $1-$2 more than the Mobil 1 filter I usually buy.

                            I've also heard people say that K&N oil filters have a small magnet in them but I've yet to see it documented or proven.

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                              #15
                              Old thread but, question on 11429059338
                              Followed the DIY, while I was slowly removing the clamp oil poured in my ear which caused me to flinch. The spring, thermostat and spring fell out but I cannot find a diagram of the reassembly order. Anyone know?

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