electrical issue with pwr window/mirrors

[Ceeker]

So I narrowed down the pwr window problem at the plug going into the door. pins were a bit corroded but cleaned them up.

I plugged the male end in and window doesn't work unless I wiggle the wires. clock work every time.

question is: is it a power supply problem or a ground problem?

other problem: pwr mirrors. I would gather it runs off the same connector as the windows. Which wire is responsible for the mirrors?

lastly: ALL my dash lights are out. I went to change the ashtray bulb which they were all working and now I have nothing.

Also have no door locks working either.

Any help would be appreciated. thx.

ps..I did check the fuses.

[cgk_iii]

First step I'd take is checking all the fuses.

[Ceeker]

First step I'd take is checking all the fuses.

seriously??? come on man..read the thread.

[StereoInstaller1]

So I narrowed down the pwr window problem at the plug going into the door. pins were a bit corroded but cleaned them up.

I plugged the male end in and window doesn't work unless I wiggle the wires. clock work every time.

question is: is it a power supply problem or a ground problem?

other problem: pwr mirrors. I would gather it runs off the same connector as the windows. Which wire is responsible for the mirrors?

lastly: ALL my dash lights are out. I went to change the ashtray bulb which they were all working and now I have nothing.

Any help would be appreciated. thx.

ps..I did check the fuses.

OK, so here is the deal: there are only 2 wires going to the power window motor and they switch when you press the button.

Normally, they "rest on ground", meaning they put out a nice solid ground when just sitting there. When you press the "Up" button, one of them switches to +12V while the other sits on ground. Press the "down" and the other wire goes live instead. That is how the motor reverses, so that means that BOTH wires must have a really nice, clean connection.

Get yourself some good contact cleaner, I prefer CRC brand. Get yourself some pipe cleaners, too, the scrubby kind. Pull the plug completely out of the car, spray heavily then scrub the piss out of it, inside and out. If it ain't all shiny when you are done, you ain't done. I have yet to see anyone do a solid job without pulling the speaker and all, physically removing the plug and inspecting carefully.

So now go get the goodies, take it apart again and kicks its ass!

GL

Luke

[Ceeker]

awwww...that WASN'T that answer I wanted to hear...LOL!! I once removed and replaced every pin connection in the drivers door..NOT FUN! :-)

[DaveSmed]

As usual, Luke is probably spot on with where the problem is. But, if you would like to prove it out and gain some familiarity with how to use your DMM, heres how:

Fish the plug going into the motor out of the door, and slide your meter test probes in alongside the wires in the back of the connector. Leave the connector plugged in during testing!

Let me repeat that one again, do NOT unplug the thing you are testing when checking voltage! Ever! Your DMM WILL lie to you if you do.

Ok, now that's cleared up, turn the key on and hit the window button up and down. Probably says something depressing right? If it does not and is showing 12v, go buy a window motor, yours is dead. If it does, prove my earlier statement by unplugging the motor and rechecking voltage. Hey look, now its 12v! (except who cares it has 12v unplugged, you want your window to work and it needs to be plugged in for that)


Ok, now what? Plug the motor back in. Take one meter lead out of the plug, and attach it to a good clean solid ground. (not just the closest ferrous-appearing object) Try up and down again. What do you see? Based on Luke's description, you want to see 12v for one direction, and 0v for the other. Depending on what in particular is wrong, you might see 12v in both directions, which means the motor isnt getting a ground at all, or you might see something like 10v one way, and 2v another way.

How the heck can that be?

Well, whats happening is on the circuit of the motor your connected to, you are seeing 10v when its supposed to be receiving 12v for that particular command. That is telling you you have a two volt drop somewhere in between the battery and the window motor. Shit, that's a lot of stuff to check. But wait, what about that 2v you measured trying the window the other way?? That is telling you that there's the exact same volt drop when the circuit is a ground.

So you pull out your trusty schematic, and determine where the changeover point is from positive to negative. (or read Luke's explanation again and go "duh, the window switch") Everything between the battery and the window switch can be eliminated now, as the two volt drop cant be there and affect the ground. Sweet, that's easier.

It's still broke though, and there has to be a way to narrow it down further. Pull the meter probe out of the window motor connector, and connect it to the car side of the door jamb connector for that circuit the same way, alongside the back with the wire. (leaving it connected!) Try it again. Are the voltages now 12v and 0v? Move the probe to the door side of the connector, 10v and 2v? Congratulations, You just determined that pin in that connector is losing 2v. Now try it with the other circuit. If it is losing, say, 3v, you only have 7v reaching the motor, and that sucks. But you can at least clean the contacts knowing it will fix the problem.

[jonyjony]

hii
I have a car in this i had a problem of front power window...
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[Ceeker]

UPDATE: well it seems my door harness is a bit touchy. I'll deal with the window issue later.

As for the interior lights. Narrowed it down to a wonky light switch. I fiddled with the switch and got the interior lights to dim and lighten. I also noticed that all my exterior lights went out when the headlights were on. So I guess I'll be testing the switch to see what's going on.

the door lock issue is strange. I found some corroded contacts that bridged themselves on the control unit side and also found the contacts a bit corroded on pins on the harness side. I cleaned them up and threw a good control unit in. control unit buzzed.

symtom: the control unit buzzes when I try to lock the door. locks were working fine two days ago.

[StereoInstaller1]

UPDATE:
symtom: the control unit buzzes when I try to lock the door. locks were working fine two days ago.

I think a sacrifice to the electrical gods might be in order.

Got a spare lamb to slaughter?

[Ceeker]

I think a sacrifice to the electrical gods might be in order.

Got a spare lamb to slaughter?

hahaha...not just yet!!! I wanna save that for a REALLY bad day...LOL!!

I managed to fix the light problem: I had two switches slightly different years. One had a good dimmer while the other (original) worked the parking and running lights with the headlights. I Frankensteined the two switches together and made one to work. :-)

ok, did some digging online and found the problem to the door locks;

there were two: first problem was the power wire that loops in the door and goes to the relay. I bridged the two and got the pwr locks to work.

2nd problem: no pass side locking or unlocking.

after removing the door panel I swapped out the lock actuator just for good measure and noticed the microswitch was completely gone. Well the harness was there. they cut it out...DUH!!! after installing a donor switch and a quick test. all the locks function like clockwork.

Window works but believe it is a ground issue. Just opening the door triggers the wire enough to let me operate the window. when the door is shut it doesn't go up or down.

[Ceeker]

UPDATE:

last problem:

lastly: maybe tackle this tomorrow - are the mirrors.

The drivers side was working before I disturbed the harness plug going from the door to the body. Since I was not able to get it to work.

I suspect it is the pin connector?

would you know which color coded wires are for the mirrors?

Cheers!

ps. making progress..lol