SLOVED!!! ANY Ideas?? Spark / Ignition Cutting out

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  • SpecM
    replied
    Originally posted by ct3155
    Ok so moving the car around today, I noticed that the check engine light would come on and stay on for awhile. While idling. Didn't die... But would the. Randomly turn back off... Related???

    What all can cause the light to come on and stay on?
    stomp test for code?

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  • bddog
    replied
    A few months back I was having similar problems. Got around to replacing the CPS. I went to zip tie the wires back while it was running and it stalled.
    The harness just past where the CPS plugged in was shorted.
    I spliced in new wire.
    It has been fine ever since.

    Leave a comment:


  • ct3155
    replied
    Ok so moving the car around today, I noticed that the check engine light would come on and stay on for awhile. While idling. Didn't die... But would the. Randomly turn back off... Related???

    What all can cause the light to come on and stay on?

    Leave a comment:


  • ct3155
    replied
    Sweet! Yeah let me know. I'll take mine off and give it a real good look at.... Maybe I screwed something up on the front of the motor during reassembly somehow.

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  • SpecM
    replied
    I've got a used harmonic balancer that I'm going to try this week. will keep posted

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  • ct3155
    replied
    I'm in the process of taking my front end apart and replacing with a real oem metal CPS. I've replaced multiple computers. I know that isn't it. I even tried the 90's 525 ECU. Engine ran normal but still cut out under load.

    I'll keep this updated as my process thankfully it's a summer car.

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  • SpecM
    replied
    anyone have any updates?

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  • SpecM
    replied
    I am still having the exact same intermitant issue, MIL and ignition cut-out and tach drop when the throttle is released or when returning to idle

    my car will go for a couple days and not act up... and then it will do it several times in one trip!

    seems to act up more so when its a bit warmer

    I have replaced DME (tried three, used), CPS (new from BMW), engine harness (used), all ignition parts (all new OE stuff), fix a couple little vac leaks

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  • ct3155
    replied
    Well shit. Lol.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Yeah Jim mentioned that.

    Worth a look at.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

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  • ct3155
    replied
    I did check the gap. That was good for sure. Maybe I will take the harmonic off an inspect it real close and pay attention while putting it back on.

    I saw in your thread, someone mentioned front main bearing could be bad.... Hope this isn't the case... I mean my engine has always seemed healthy.. But it's still old I guess.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Did you check the air gap on the cps to the wheel is 1mm?

    I know when i had this issue someone through out the idea that the OBC code relay control could be causing the issue. Didnt turn out to be, but was reasonable.

    Also, did you make sure the harmonic wasnt bent or something and wobbling?

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  • ct3155
    replied
    It does have 13 button obc. It's functions all work.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Thats what the weird thing is, id expect either it to be fixed with a good cps or have slightly different symptoms if the swapped cps is also bad

    A bad tps could cause startup issues and WOT issues, but no CEL and no tach drop off.

    This is a long shot, but does your car have a 13 button obc?

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  • ct3155
    replied
    What does that fact that it can idle fine once started and settled out tell us? Anything? Or even when driving. Like, I just know In between gear Changes it will have to hiccup for a second then I go on my way...

    It just seems so intermittent.

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