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    My newish e30

    Hey guys I got a 89 325ic. 149k, I have had it for 6 months and I have done, timing belt/water pump, valve seals, ignition tune up(plugs, wires,cap & rotar), fuel filter, flex disk, oil change.

    Any other maintenace you guys suggest?

    I want to go through anythibg & everything to make this car my dream car.

    ****has 19lb fuel injectors from previous owner-I'm confused about them, good/bad?***

    Things I am thinking of:
    ~Suspension-I want to go a little lower(considering coilovers or cup kits)
    ~Fuel system cleaning from pep boys $89 and they go through everything
    ~Plastic bumper conversion
    ~silicon hoses
    ~bleeding brakes
    ~ what fluids do I need to change?

    Any input on any of those or Other things I could do to make my e30 running tip top shape

    #2
    Hey, welcome!

    Looks like you've got a pretty good list so far. If you're looking to go a little lower, my suggestion would be M3 springs and Koni Sport Adjustable shocks and struts. I have them on my car and they lowered it a little over an inch, and the dampers allow me to make the car stiff enough to have fun but soft enough to enjoy long drives. Depends what you're planning on using the car for though I suppose.
    As far as the fuel system cleaning, there's a guy on here who will flow test and repair your injectors for almost nothing. Look him up in the tech forum. As far as the 19lb injectors go, I don't believe they make much of a performance difference at all on a stock motor. I would think they would just pump more fuel in than stock injectors, hurting mileage.
    Plastic bumper conversions are pretty well-documented and not a huge deal as long as you're comfortable with the welding involved with the rear valance. If it were me though, I'd just suggest getting an '87 iS front spoiler and rocking the original bumpers. I find them much more functional and durable than plastics and not unattractive with a front spoiler and maybe a rear valance like a Racing Dynamics or Zender.
    When you bleed the brakes, make sure to completely flush the system and replace it with new fluid. Also take a close look at all the soft brake lines. There is one at each corner and one above the driveshaft near the rear of the car. You may need to replace all five by this point in your car's life.
    Does the car have a manual or automatic transmission? Either way, it's probably a good idea to change the fluid. If the car is a manual, clean the outside of the case and look for a sticker. Some boxes use ATF and will be marked as such. Also, changing the fluid in the differential wouldn't be a bad idea just so you know it's all fresh. If the car has a limited slip, make sure to use an oil designed for use with limited slip or use a limited slip additive.
    I don't know how it's running, but you could potentially have the AFM rebuilt (also by someone on the forum) and change the o2 sensor. Do you know how old the air filter is? You should check its condition and replace it if necessary. Don't buy an aftermarket "cold air" intake: the original intake is a cold air system and works well.

    There might be something else, but I think that's a good start.
    Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

    Elva Courier build thread here!

    Comment


      #3
      Make sure your trans and diff have enough fluid in them. Fluid cleanliness is optional, fluid level is essential.

      If all you want is just a little bit more low and don't care too much about track potential, just get springs. H&R sport + billies is a good compromise. Unless you're good at welding/metal fabrication -or- if you don't mind paying someone to do the work I'd avoid coilovers. The front strut tube has to be modified to do the conversion and the rear shock tower has to be heavily reinforced as well.

      Fuel system cleaning... waste of money. Especially at pep boys. Most places will just put a can of "cleaner" in your gas tank and call it a day. The better places will set up a device that will spray an abrasive compound into your intake manifold while the car is running... but really, you're not going to get much out of it.

      Also, more powerrrrrrrrrrrrrr :D

      Comment


        #4
        ^ Additionally, those cleaning services that use abrasive compounds and/or alcohol-based "cleaners" can have the effect of wearing the injectors and turning a small issue into a big one.

        Also also, you should definitely have the car smoke tested at a shop for vacuum leaks.
        Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

        Elva Courier build thread here!

        Comment


          #5
          Thank you guys very much!

          It's a manual, I actually haven't replaced the flex disk yet but it's next on the "to do list" My car is feeling some vibration and play in my steering wheel( shaking) I'm thinking it might have something to do with my flex disk?! Or am I completely wrong?

          I took the car in to the guys at Ca Tuned (bmw lovers) once I got it and there are a couple things to be fixed & leaks through out the engine/transmission such as...
          Oil drive seals
          Gasket @ throttle
          Power steering reservoir & hoses
          Rear main seal
          Oil pan gasket
          Oil cooler hoses
          Trans output shaft seal
          Missing fan shroud & exhaust shields
          Flex joint cracked & 4 joints loose
          Lastly my exhaust hanger is missing.

          I've already gone through and knocked out my
          T belt
          Water pump
          Valve cover gasket
          Cam @ crank seals

          Any of those things I could/should do together and is there Any little mounts or other things I should replace once I'm going to be in doing the things on the list.
          I will be having someone I know who works on cars At his place (does really good work at a great price about $20-$30 a hour)


          Yes I know I bought a car with a bunch of issues so please don't reenforce my thoughts of me being an idiot haha

          Comment


            #6
            Also what is the AFM you speak of? Haha. I bet that is a really stupid question but I'm a noob.
            Air filter is the k&n reusable one. I cleaned and re oiled it 2 weeks ago

            Comment


              #7
              Here are some Glamore shots

              [ATTACH]78149[/ATTACH]

              [ATTACH]78150[/ATTACH]

              [ATTACH]78151[/ATTACH]

              [ATTACH]78152[/ATTACH]

              Comment


                #8
                Sweet vert. Make sure you drop by CAtuned in Sacramento. They are a great shop of the e30 community. They should be able to help you out with looking over your e30. He has done many great e30 builds

                CAtuned/Autoheaven
                2609 Fulton Ave, Sacramento, CA 95821
                (916) 481-2312

                Tell Igor, Ryan of Motorsport Hardware sent ya
                95 7.1L 16V E36 M3
                Motorsport Hardware ***Wheel studs and Spacers!!!--->FOR SALE 4/5 Lug Stud Conversion Kits available CLICK HERE
                LIKE my Facebook Page! CLICK HERE

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by kalib0y View Post
                  Sweet vert. Make sure you drop by CAtuned in Sacramento. They are a great shop of the e30 community. They should be able to help you out with looking over your e30. He has done many great e30 builds

                  CAtuned/Autoheaven
                  2609 Fulton Ave, Sacramento, CA 95821
                  (916) 481-2312

                  Tell Igor, Ryan of Motorsport Hardware sent ya
                  Yes! They are my shop I go to! They went through it and figured out all my problems. Great guys. I love going in a looking at all their beautiful e30s

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Oh, you've already got the front spoiler! Keep the bumpers, they'll grow on you. The shaking in the steering wheel is most likely due to something like a wheel out of balance or a bad alignment. AFM is air flow meter.
                    Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

                    Elva Courier build thread here!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      That's a lot of time and money to go into a stock M20... unless, of course, you're going for a 'showroom floor' restoration.

                      Also, nice vert :up:

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Check your fuel tank for rust.
                        Check your Fuel Pump for corrosion.
                        Seafoam your engine.
                        Replace Transmission and Diff Fluid.
                        Replace all your bushings.
                        Inspect your driveshaft(CSB, U-Joint, Tighten all bolts and nuts)

                        "Fuel System cleaning" biggest waste of money.

                        #AZE30
                        1991 318i
                        1989 325i
                        1989 335i

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by jalopi View Post
                          That's a lot of time and money to go into a stock M20... unless, of course, you're going for a 'showroom floor' restoration.

                          Also, nice vert :up:
                          Ya I know but I have dreams of stoking her out some day.
                          I just want a super strong healthy running engine.

                          Thanks for all the input. You guys rock

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I'll be frank - if you're planning on stroking the m20, I wouldn't mess with any of the oil leaks for now. Even with your mechanic offering a pretty good deal on labor, you'll still spend a lot replacing those seals with the engine in the car. Once it's out on the other hand... 10 minute job. Just make sure your fluids stay full and you'll be good.

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