Electrical Problem

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  • jlevie
    replied
    The voltage regulator is also the brush holder. Two screws mount it to the back of the alternator. Pull the belt and check the bearings for noise. If good, replace the regulator/brush assembly. If the bearings are bad replace the alternator with a Bosh or BMW reman.

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  • FuriousCJP
    replied
    Wheres the voltage regulator??????

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  • cabriodster87
    replied
    Posibly problem with high resistance in Heater Circuit/ Blower. Just a guess, but still check everything.

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  • FuriousCJP
    replied
    Is the voltage regulator in/ on alternator or is it mounted separately? Is there a way to test it?? One more thing, My heat only worked on hi right. Well last night the heat worked on all settings. So my resistor isn't bad?????

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  • Chuck C
    replied
    Voltage regulator

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  • FuriousCJP
    replied
    Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver
    Why were you driving with the hazards on?
    I do the paper route. Gotta have my hazarads on. You wouldn't believe the f*#king idots that drive at night in a van down by the river. Anyway here are the values, mind you the heat is on hi due to resistor and headlights is hi beams.( V =volts)
    With nothing on--13.87v
    headlights only--13.77v
    hazard only---13.83v
    headlights and hazard --13.73v
    heat only--- steadily drop till 12.5v. It slows but continues to drop
    headlights and heat ---steadily drop till 12.4v. It slows but continues to drop.
    headlights, haz, and heat---steadily drop till 12v. It slows but continues to drop
    With all 3 on, when voltage reached about 9.9v thats when the rpms start acting crazy. I should probably include that the 2nd time the heat quit (after I replaced the blower) it was a blown fuse. The fuse was fine the 1st three nights after replacing blower. Blow a fuse fixed it and here we are. You guys still thinking alternator??

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  • Chuck C
    replied
    Check your alternator ground wire, and your engine ground wires, esp. the one at back of the cyl. head.

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  • 603Racing
    replied
    That the way everyone drives 'in a van down by the river'. Now, how you drive an e30 in a van down by the river is beyond me.

    Productive comment: If the blower is off and you have everything else in the car on (all lights, rear defrost, radio, etc) is there still a voltage issue? I would run the car with all the items you listed and check the voltage, also check the voltage with the car running and everything turned off. Then report back.

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  • AndrewBird
    replied
    Definitely alternator. Make sure you charge the battery out of the car. Jumping it and letting the alternator charge it is bad for the alternator.

    Why were you driving with the hazards on?

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  • jlevie
    replied
    Sounds like the alternator isn't able to produce full output, probably from worn brushes.

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  • FuriousCJP
    started a topic Electrical Problem

    Electrical Problem

    I have a 1984 318i 5spd manual coupe w/ M10. I've been having issues w/ my blower motor. Finally got the motor fixed but still need the resistor. Any way I was driving it last night. I had the headlights, heater, and hazards on. I noticed that the interior and dash lights were dimmed by this.
    Ok no prob. Turn heater off and back on and noticed it affect the cluster. The rpms were jumping around from 0-4k. It was also make the car sluggish. I could accelerate just fine with just head and haz lights on but go to turn heater on and car would kinda pause/ jump ( choppy accel.) Shut the car off and batttery was dead. By the way pressing brakes with all 3 on made it even worse. Don't know were to start. I'm pretty bad w/ electrical. Any ideas guys???? Finally fixed heater now I can't use it:hitler:
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