Kmac adj rear install

[nitro325is]

Buying rear tires every 12 months is not fun.So time to install the rear camber kit.Anyone done this? I got it from Bavauto(still kmac) 2 yrs ago but have never attempted it yet.I realize adj will have to be made at a shop but anything I should expect to have trouble with installing it?
Any one running this or similiar kit from bmwbushings.com? Gonna get the front from bmwbushings.com.Thats so much easier than the rear as the front install is the usual strut removal procedure.

[Stu]

Hell, I eat tires every 6 months. Only took 3 months once...

[Rob]

if you are lowered, you might run into rubbing issues without enough negative camber...

[nitro325is]

Stu--I dont drive this car everyday so I guess I would kill them more often if I did.Especially with your powerplant.That pic is awesome.GC?

Rob--yes i am lowered 2 inches by spax.Looks like more. I dont want to dial it all out.Just enought to minimize the wear, improve the appearence, and put that damm kit to use!Its been sitting there for 2 yrs! What is the stock setting? What would be optimal? For frequent but not daily driver?

[rwh11385]

Negative camber is bad ass. // \\
And what offset do you run? Mine would definately run into rubbing issues if I corrected the camber. And would you install yourself, because a shop quoted $5-600 for the install for me.

[kansas-ix]

it can't really

$5-600 for the install for me.

it seems so simply to drop the trailing arms down and put the new bushings in I must be wrong about this right?

[rwh11385]

it can't really

$5-600 for the install for me.

it seems so simply to drop the trailing arms down and put the new bushings in I must be wrong about this right?

I believe the shop I talked to mentioned welding, but it's been a while.

But there is a cheaper alternative: just have an experienced shop bend the trailing arms for you. The shop said this would be somewhere around $100 (? i think) to modify the rear trailing arms to correct camber. :)

I can give them, or my uncle a call about it to refresh for details.

[Bill 84 318i]

it can't really

$5-600 for the install for me.

it seems so simply to drop the trailing arms down and put the new bushings in I must be wrong about this right?

I believe the shop I talked to mentioned welding, but it's been a while.

Nah, you only have to weld if you're making the tabs on your rear subframe adjustable. Which is a lot cooler than these offset bushings ever will be.

But removing the trailing arms shouldn't be difficult per se, but time consuming.

[rwh11385]

Bill, thanks. :up:

[Beej '86 325es]

Nah, you only have to weld if you're making the tabs on your rear subframe adjustable. Which is a lot cooler than these offset bushings ever will be.

It looks like a hell of a job to do it too. I was extremely fortunate to find a subframe on eBay that was already modified and repainted, and at about half the price I would have spent to do it myself. eBay rules.

The other nice thing about the modified subframe is that it won't loose it's positioning like the offset kmac bushings tend to. I believe I have to pound in the the body a bit above the tabs for clearance though. Can't wait to rebuild the rear suspension, a lot of the parts should be in the mail in the next couple of days. I'm ansy in the pantsy to get back to autocrossing.

[Bryson]

semi rear trailing arms are gay. Raise up the car, it won't mess up your geometry (supposedly adjusting the t-arm pickup points does)
buy some thick spring pads.

[AdamF 88iS]

The Kmacs are a PITA to install because they spin around out of alignment all the damn time.

Adjustable subframe is much better.

[darien28]

screw the kmacs... there are weld on adapters that I believe IE sells for you to slot out the bushing holes to get an adjustable subframe. I believe it's possible to slot out only the lower? or only the upper? holes to adjust only camber. the kit is basically some weld-on reinforcement plates that really aren't worth the cost...

the reason the kmacs are a pita to install is becasue they're eccentric bushings, so by rotating ONE you change both toe and camber, so you have to rotate the other to correct the toe, then your camber will be off again, so you gotta play around with it forever...

or jsut get your subframe bent a few degrees by a reputable body shop. that's the cheapest way. and will work as long as you don't plan on raising your car again. lol

I was thinking.. instead of modifying the subframe, can't a slide mount be made pretty easily? o.O

[Beej '86 325es]

screw the kmacs... there are weld on adapters that I believe IE sells for you to slot out the bushing holes to get an adjustable subframe. I believe it's possible to slot out only the lower? or only the upper? holes to adjust only camber. the kit is basically some weld-on reinforcement plates that really aren't worth the cost...

This is what I have waiting to be put in. You can change the inner mounts to be able to adjust the camber, and the outer mounts to adjust the toe. The kits together are like $160-$200. The real cost is having the work done.

The reason I opted to do this instead of the bushings is because as the suspension moves, the camber and toe are constantly changing. The adjustable mounts are the proper way to fix the camber issue.

[darien28]

isn't the "kit" some ridiculous pieces of cut steel? >.> can anyone post pictures of it?