Battery/starting issue.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Ok. The vert has been patiently waiting for me to get her on the road and for better weather to come since early november.

Since then, I've regularly run her, up to temp, even driven her around a bit.

The battery is JUNK, so I've been using a jump pack to start her every time.

Lately, the jump pack just isn't doing it for the old girl. I'll get a few minutes out, and then the car will sputter and die. Hook the pack up, boom, back to life.

I'm afraid that the alternator might be bad, or I might have damaged it by running it with a dead battery for so long. Any truth to this?

What's the best way to test the alternator?

[wastedincome]

The old skool way is: Once the engine is running pull the pos. bat, cable for a second. IF it die's=bad Alt.
BUT i have heard this doesn't work on all cars. You can also use a test meter to see what the volts & amps are at the cable while running.
HTH

[Brew]

The old skool way is: Once the engine is running pull the pos. bat, cable for a second. IF it die's=bad Alt.
BUT i have heard this doesn't work on all cars. You can also use a test meter to see what the volts & amps are at the cable while running.
HTH

I wouldn't pull the battery cable with the car running if I were you.

Scott, get a good battery in the car and go from there. Check the voltage with the car running, you should have over 13.5V.

[Bimmerfanatik]

I wouldn't pull the battery cable with the car running if I were you.

Scott, get a good battery in the car and go from there. Check the voltage with the car running, you should have over 13.5V.

I never liked pulling cables off, though it does make logical sense.

Anyways, if the battery is dead, I should still have 14ish at the terminals right? My multi is dead, so I gotta get another one.

I suppose an alternator isn't a big deal to replace anyways. Are they the same (e and i?)

[arsevader]

I never liked pulling cables off, though it does make logical sense.

On ECU based cars it's not a good idea because you can damage the ECU. THe alternator also needs a battery connected to run properly and can be damged if the battery is removed fomr the circuit.

Anyways, if the battery is dead, I should still have 14ish at the terminals right?

If the Alternator is good yes. I'd suspect what you are thinking. A dead battery is as good as no battery and the alternator may be history. Take it in to most parts places, they'll test it for free.

I suppose an alternator isn't a big deal to replace anyways. Are they the same (e and i?)

I've gotten to be a bit of a pro at replacing them, it takes about 20 minutes tops. You just need to remove the air filter box and the belt.

The E uses a lower amp version (85 amp) but either should mount up fine. The earlier ones used rubber bushings and newer ones use metal integrated ones. The E needs a ground cable from the alternator case to the block due to the rubber.

[Bimmerfanatik]

On ECU based cars it's not a good idea because you can damage the ECU. THe alternator also needs a battery connected to run properly and can be damged if the battery is removed fomr the circuit.



If the Alternator is good yes. I'd suspect what you are thinking. A dead battery is as good as no battery and the alternator may be history. Take it in to most parts places, they'll test it for free.



I've gotten to be a bit of a pro at replacing them, it takes about 20 minutes tops. You just need to remove the air filter box and the belt.

The E uses a lower amp version (85 amp) but either should mount up fine. The earlier ones used rubber bushings and newer ones use metal integrated ones. The E needs a ground cable from the alternator case to the block due to the rubber.

Excellent advice.

I'll pop this one out, throw a new battery in, and replace the alternator with a late model one. Might as well grab a new adjuster bracket while I'm in there. These things ALWAYS strip...

Anyways, the vert is coming together. If the Jeep (now on ebay) sells this week, I may be driving it earlier than I had planned.

Now to deal with that rear window...

[Dave]

its the nut that usually strips - not the bracket. The nut on there should be good _ i just replaced it last year - I think.

[Bimmerfanatik]

its the nut that usually strips - not the bracket. The nut on there should be good _ i just replaced it last year - I think.

roffle

All the ones I've seen the bracket strips at the last few teeth, making it impossible to tighten the belt all the way.

I still get a kick out of having you respond about the car you used to own - it's a huge help ;)

[arsevader]

roffle

All the ones I've seen the bracket strips at the last few teeth, making it impossible to tighten the belt all the way.

Me too.

I bought a new one, wasn't too expensive. That funky yellow metal look. I thought "hmm looks brand new, glad something in my engine looks new..." a month later the bracket had that same grey metal look as every other peice in there. Go figure. Oh well at least you can tighten the belt now.

And of course it's those last few teeth that are the important ones.

[Bimmerfanatik]

That funky yellow metal look. I thought "hmm looks brand new, glad something in my engine looks new..."

I thought the same thing lol...

[wastedincome]

I wouldn't pull the battery cable with the car running if I were you.

On ECU based cars it's not a good idea because you can damage the ECU. THe alternator also needs a battery connected to run properly and can be damged if the battery is removed fomr the circuit.

A dead battery is as good as no battery and the alternator may be history.

Right?! IF you have a completly BAD bat. Then you might as well have none which would be like pulling the cable. I DO agree that its not good to do on ECU cars thats why it was refered to as "Old skool way"
Scotty I can bring my multi meter down w/ me this week. I could also bring you one of my spare batteries, but now that I think of it I'm not sure if the big trunk mounted bats. will fit up front in a vert'. Also I know you have mostly ETA's down there do you want me to pull the iS' one I have?

[Bimmerfanatik]

Right?! IF you have a completly BAD bat. Then you might as well have none which would be like pulling the cable. I DO agree that its not good to do on ECU cars thats why it was refered to as "Old skool way"
Scotty I can bring my multi meter down w/ me this week. I could also bring you one of my spare batteries, but now that I think of it I'm not sure if the big trunk mounted bats. will fit up front in a vert'. Also I know you have mostly ETA's down there do you want me to pull the iS' one I have?

Can't hurt to bring it with you - beats driving up there if we do need it ;)

Same goes for the bat - at least to try it...

[AdamF 88iS]

Just check voltage at teh batter with teh car running. should be between 12-14v. Outside of that (over or under) you need an alternator; or in rare cases you could have a bad connection somwhere.

You may be able to get away with just changing the voltage regulator though, sometimes they get worn down pretty far and don't make a good contact anymore.

[arsevader]

I DO agree that its not good to do on ECU cars thats why it was refered to as "Old skool way"

Sorry if you thought I was busting your balls, I wasn't.

Yeah those 'old skool' guys really knew how to troubleshoot. :)

"unplug it and if something stops working then you must have found the problem"

[wastedincome]

Sorry if you thought I was busting your balls, I wasn't.

Yeah those 'old skool' guys really knew how to troubleshoot. :)

"unplug it and if something stops working then you must have found the problem"

No problem this board is based on busting balls, lol. Old School cars are great to work on....NO computers everything was mechanical, NOT electronic.