Weird overheating problem.

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  • h17m4n
    Noobie
    • Dec 2013
    • 7
    #1

    Weird overheating problem.

    I posted on this topic before, but never a full story.

    My timing belt snapped about 6 months ago. I decided to DIY. Head went to engineers. Gasket replaced. Did not bleed. Overheated. I then did head gasket replacement again. This time bled properly. She was running hot. Replaced thermostat and found the gasket was leaking. Crappy bloody gasket. Replaced the with an Elring. Bled fine.
    Replaced water bottle coz flow was not great.

    Now for the fun...

    Car runs fine. Temp goes to half mark in traffic and I can stand still for a long time. When driving, temp moves a millimeter or two towards cool mark. I can push her hard and she stays cool.

    When I drive on the freeway at 120kph she remains cool. Even doing so in fourth or third at 5000 rpm she remains cool.

    When I climb, even accelerating slowly, to 130kph she starts climbing temp. As she reaches just under 3/4, I tap back to 120kph and she starts coming down to normal (millimeter under half).

    I flushed the rad, seems to have good flow.

    The only thing "not stock" is the valbe clclearance. Which I set according to the forums here.

    I found a vacuum leak on throttle body. Sorted that.

    I don't know what else to check. Please help...

    Sent from my MT11i using Tapatalk 2
    Tags: None
    • h17m4n
      Noobie
      • Dec 2013
      • 7
      #2
      Sorry, it's a stock 88 325i :)

      Sent from my MT11i using Tapatalk 2

        Comment

        • 603Racing
          Mod Crazy
          • Dec 2010
          • 612
          #3
          It seems odd that speed affects the temp and not RPM. That leads me to think you have a air flow or radiator problem.

          Perhaps the 2nd overheating damaged the head?
          Does your aux fan come on when it heats up?
          When the head gasket blew, did it put oil into your coolant? If so the radiator may flow ok, but may have oil residue in it.
          90 325i DD/Track
          03 Durango 5.9


          Originally posted by e30mpg
          It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

            Comment

            • h17m4n
              Noobie
              • Dec 2013
              • 7
              #4
              I'm actually leaning towards a rad type problem. I don't think airflow is an issue because the car runs fine at lower speed and standing still. The incoming air at higher speed should be a benefit.

              When gasket went second time, there was a bit of mixture. What would flush best?

                Comment

                • 603Racing
                  Mod Crazy
                  • Dec 2010
                  • 612
                  #5
                  There are all kinds of radiator flush products/chemicals. Most of them all work the same. I would highly recommend buying a cleaning product and using it several times. When mine blew and mixed oil into the coolant, my radiator and reservoir tank were terribly coated. Took me hours to clean them out.
                  90 325i DD/Track
                  03 Durango 5.9


                  Originally posted by e30mpg
                  It is recommended to get new gasket but this is R3v and we just copper spray that shit......slap biotch on and tighten to tq.

                    Comment

                    • DoneRightBimmer
                      Advanced Member
                      • May 2012
                      • 158
                      #6
                      Just an idea check rad fan clutch use the newspaper trick.

                        Comment

                        • h17m4n
                          Noobie
                          • Dec 2013
                          • 7
                          #7
                          I found a hole in coolant hose, the one from block side if thermostat housing to top of rad... I cut it a bit shorter, to get rid of hole.

                          I also switched to LRP as opposed to Unleaded...

                          Drove earlier to 160 with no problem...

                          Although, when I punch her hard, temp rises to just under 3/4. Never higher, YET....

                          The rest of the time, no problems...

                          Any thoughts.

                            Comment

                            • jlevie
                              R3V OG
                              • Nov 2006
                              • 13530
                              #8
                              The thing I'd suspect first in this case would be the radiator.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                                Comment

                                • catalyst.
                                  Advanced Member
                                  • Aug 2004
                                  • 131
                                  #9
                                  Maybe my thread could help you a little haha. I dont know if e30s have heater core valves but the ones on my e36 were jammed full of crap and could have def caused a problem.
                                  94 325is

                                    Comment

                                    • maximus_pr
                                      Member
                                      • Jan 2010
                                      • 42
                                      #10
                                      sticky thermostat perhaps?

                                      just because is new does not means it can be defective I had an issue with 2 new coolant sensors a few years ago.

                                        Comment

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