So I purchased 1986 euro 318 with an already swapped S50. Car looks pretty damn good, solid body free of rust. I noticed when I was going to buy it that when it would start up, the idle would hunt and act as if it were going to stall for like the first 15-20 seconds. The intake boot was torn wide open so I assumed it was a vacuum leak. I get the car home, drive it....runs like a bat outta hell, real nice. I park it for about a week, go back to it and start it, all good. I order the intake boot and replace it, go to start it...Fuker doesn't start now. I do some reading, think its fuel related. Find out there is not fuel pressure. My car has a sending unit in the tank and a fuel pump by the left rear wheel. Pull the pump and jump it, pump works. Try to locate the fuel pump fuse/relay, I don't know which one it is. One of the wires at the pump is solid green, the other is brown. I don't see those colors at any of the relays. I am a little bit lost and fear that I may have been hosed by this guy. I just don't even know where to begin tracing wires!
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In addition, the car cranks but just no fuel. Pump does not operate. -
fuel pump is fuse #11 if that helps
i have no idea what i am doing with my lifeComment
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Yeah, its good. Thank you.Comment
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Check out the relay under the black plastic cover next to driver side shock tower.Last edited by nickmcc92; 02-02-2014, 03:06 PM.Comment
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clogged fuel filter? replace it since its cheap and good maintenance anyway.
i have no idea what i am doing with my lifeComment
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I was going to guess it was something with the Idle air control if it was hunting at idle, and the tear was acting as a (very bad) idle air valve. since you checked that you have no fuel pressure, I would check the fuses which you've done, and then check the fuel pump relay. Im not sure if the fuel pump relay goes through the c101 engine harness to body harness connector as well, but I would check that. Some wiring may not be done correctly on the engine harness.Comment
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The fuel pump relay is one of the three mounted on the left side shock tower. If the relays are in the factory configuration it will be the middle one. Well at least on US cars. an early Euro 318 may not be the same. The power for the pump does run through C101.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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Originally posted by dirtbag30 View PostOriginally posted by e30Troop View Post
Use a testlight to test to see if you have power at 11, don't dick around using your eyeballs to test fuses.
Remember too that BMW does not "prime" the fuel pump, it only turns on when the engine is turning over.
Power comes from the main relay, goes to the fuel pump relay and then off to fuse 11. If you have power there, you automatically know that the relays are both good, as is your CPS and DME.
If you don't have a testlght, they are $5 at Walmart, in the automotive electrical section.
GL!
Luke
Closing SOON!"LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW
Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398
Thanks for 10 years of fun!Comment
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The plot thickens
Well, it seems I may have narrowed down the issue here. I had no power at fuse #11. I can feel the fuel pump relay clicking away while cranking. I removed the pump and manually jumped it, pump works. I decided to take a peek at the DME to find an icicle hanging from it! I thawed it out, but something got my interest. The DME is a red label from and M50, not the S50 supposedly in the car.....I looked on the forum to find that I guess you can do that but you need a specific chip. Well, from the looks of my chip, I can't tell what it is. I have definitely been mislead from the beginning with this car, the kid hosed me. I thought what I was getting was a decent shape car that runs like a bat outta hell, but now I have this block of ice. I'm a little pissed and need some guidance and encouragement. I am pretty handy and can do most anything on these cars.
How much am I looking at for a DME and a chip, etc.... I also noticed under the dash this is an EWS car, the kid had the antenna ring with a key in it taped under the dash. I'm assuming if/when I replace the DME I need to align them? Also does anyone in the Warwick NY area have a DME for me to plug and play to ensure that is what I need to start!
Attached FilesLast edited by e30Troop; 02-11-2014, 12:51 PM.Comment
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Holy hell! Find the right DME that works with your swap. Remember there are different s50 motors. OBDI and OBDII.90 325i DD/Track
03 Durango 5.9
Originally posted by e30mpgComment
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Right, which the kid said it's an s50 from a 95, so OBD1. But I now question if it is a true s50, how can I be sure. Why would he be using an M50 325i DME in the swap?Originally posted by 603Racing View PostComment
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Using M50 Red Label DME is completely correct and right way of doing it. There are several DMEs that work, red label is one of them. It does not matter if you have S50 or M50. Chip seems to be Turner Motorsports from what little I can telll on that photo.
Your problem is wet/frozen ECU. You need a new one and a chip. I'll look around to see if we have any of them left at the shop you can buy it along with door cards :)Comment
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You have (had) Turner Chip 4131-3001 OBD I S50 with Euro HFM https://www.turnermotorsport.com/pag...ation_2008.pdfComment
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Listen to MrSlacker, he's got this.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk90 325i DD/Track
03 Durango 5.9
Originally posted by e30mpgComment
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