Wierdest lock issue ever. Help.

[ebelements]

Here's the background: two weeks ago, during a fight with a frozen door lock with my 86 325e coupe, my driver's lock went into "Double Lock" and couldn't be returned back to the fully vertical, normal operating position. Since then I've been using two keys at once to get into my car - one in driver's door lock as vertical as I can get it, and another operating the trunk lock normally... which will unlock the car, but you have to put the driver's door lock back to the fully horizontal double-lock position before you remove the key - which locks all the doors again. A huge pain in the ass to say the least. So, I source some locks from someone on r3v this week and today I'm doing the install.

Old lock out, new(er) lock in, cake.

Now, this is where it gets odd. Lock turns okay but won't unlock or lock the door. I pulled it all back apart to mess with it... so the way I'm seeing this is, the little "finger" on the tumbler moves the fork for the lock/latch assembly, right. One can only assume that with the lock out, I should be able to move that little fork with my finger and lock/unlock the car. Well, I can't. So I play with the other locks. My previously semi-functioning passenger lock now works pretty nice. But when I go to lock the car now, the locks will go down then IMMEDIATELY pop back up.

So I'm thinking the door latch assembly is toast. Either that, or 1986 german locking technology is far superior to my mental abilities.

Any help would be appreciated greatly. Also, if you have a driver's door latch assembly for a central locking 2-door car you're willing to part with, let me know.

Thanks in advance!

eb

[ebelements]

All these views andno replies? Where's the love?!?

[UNHCLL]

the electronic lock actuator, inside the door is fried.
replace it with a new one, or one from a working parts car.

Its a red/white plastic L type module inside the door. You'll need to remove the inner door panel to get to it.