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new here have immobilizer questions

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    #16
    If you wanted to takes quick look I can deff buy you and your girl dinner

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      #17
      We are getting coil now if points are dirty and it's not sending a signal back. Would that keep fuel pump from running

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        #18
        No points. All electronic.

        Ignition will fire/pump will kick on as long as the dme sees timing data. If your getting spark and no fuel, likely issue is fuel pump/relay or wiring.

        Try jumping the fuel relay, that car should have 2 pumps, one external and one internal low pressure feed pump. Make sure both are working, though a car will still generally run with a bad lift pump and good high pressure pump.

        I'd only accept dinner if I fixed it lol


        Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
        -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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          #19
          Have Power at coil still no spark when we bridge fuel pump relay only here transfer pump running on drivers side should both be running? Have power were we should checking ground at dme... And dinner either way would love to meet some go e30 people even a diag would help even if car didn't run I'm running out of things to try just cleaned up all the points and rotor still no spark

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            #20
            There's a rotor and cap with points they were half burnt up what do you mean no points? I know you know your e30s just asking

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              #21
              On fronts of engine on top near valve cover

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                #22
                Points is old way of firing the coil before electronic ignition. The ignition is just electronically controlled and just a cap and rotor, no points.

                If your still getting no spark or fuel go back to what Jim said. It's a dme/cps /wiring issue somewhere.

                Check the c101 connector near the fuse box and make sure it's clean. Inspect all wiring for corrosion or possible rodent damage.



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                Last edited by FLG; 03-18-2014, 07:57 PM.
                -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                  #23
                  !!

                  I HAD THIS SAME EXACT PROBLEM when I bought my 86 e30 a year and a half ago. Drove the car home, and then next morning just crank crank crank. I followed the bentley to the brink and discovered no spark, the fuel pumps were working, and the DME was NOT receiving battery voltage when checked at the connector. I replaced the main and fuel pump relays to no avail. I slapped my OBC many times to no avail. I removed the drivers side lower dash cover and slapped around all the relays beneath there, and what do ya know, power to the correct pins at the DME and fires right up. I have yet to replace any relays underneath the dash, because I was so happy the problem was fixed, I didnt invest time to figure what critical relays are down there. this has happened to me once or twice since, to which i slam the door hard a few times and kick the shit out of the crappy cardboard knee bolster, and it starts :drink:

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                    #24
                    OK, I had a similar problem that was related to the OBC/DME. Sometimes the car would not start, the problem cropped up on a cross country roadtrip. Would restart after a period of time or after tapping on various relays, etc. Problem got worse as the trip went on.

                    Finally, while sitting on the side of the road in Kentucky I remembered the OBC interface, this car is also an 87...I found the 3 wire plug under the glovebox and wired the hot wire from the glovebox light to the green/red wire...or maybe I have that wrong....I think I stuffed the hot glovebox wire (green/red?) into the middle wire of the 3 wire plug. Anyway, you can hear the Idle control valve hum when it is hooked up even with the ignition off so I need to wire that thru a toggle, have been driving the car 15k miles stuffing the wire into that plug every time I start it but very busy around here...

                    I believe it is the "male" side of the 3 wire plug that I hot wire.

                    Al Taylor

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                      #25
                      OK so I was with Austin for a few hrs troubleshooting.

                      Jim, followed your guide.

                      Missing power to pin 18 on the dme, even tried bypassing main relay by jumping pin 30 to both 87s and still nothing. I can trigger the relay by grounding pin 36 I believe it was.

                      Fusible link in the trunk is good and there's power at the junction box in the engine bay.

                      All the wiring seems good and not touched.

                      Ideas? Bad dme? Bad main relay?

                      Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
                      -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

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                        #26
                        I have to thank flg so much I could not have done the trouble shooting he helped me with in five times the amount of time myself. As you see above it seems to be narrowed down to a few items... You rock frank

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                          #27
                          just wanted you guys to know i got the car running purs like a kitten, had to run a new wire from main engine relay to dme for pin 18. the wire was green and not letting enough voltage or amps to dme i just wanted to thank everyone for there help

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