I should clarify for you. My bad idle overall was from those 2 things. My high idle specifically was from the cruise control cable while my rough idle was from loose #6 plug wire.
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Haven't fully tested the AFM not sure how to, I can look into it in the bentley. I recently just moved and have a ton of other crap to do so it may be a while for me to get around to it. I have tested the IAC and TPS and are working as they should. I suspect there may be a leak near the brake booster as that is the only part of the intake I have no rebuilt/replaced.Originally posted by 702pjc View PostComment
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Even if you have rebuilt the entire engine, that doesn't mean that there aren't intake leaks. Only a smoke test will tell for sure.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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Have you checked the idle temp switch? The one with the two exposed spade contractors? It's a coolant temp sensor that triggers the idle control module. If it's faulty you will have a high idle.Comment
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Still can't get it to idle just replaced both coolant temp sensors. Brown one with single prong and blue one with double prong, Unplugged the battery to reset the ECU and have the same exact symptoms.Originally posted by Andy.B View Post
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Did you ever figure the problem. Out?Comment
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To test the ICV and AFM, disconnect them while idling. The car should react. AFM should make the engine sound rough, ICV should raise the rpm.
I had a bad ICV (which was leaking air through the connectors in the back) and nothing happened when you disconnected it.
So if you disconnect and nothing happens, take a meter and check the resistances on the outputs (should be in the bentley manual).
One of the other more obscure reasons for funky idles are the ground cables. Check those for wear too.Comment
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