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m20 backfiring/popping through intake manifold

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    m20 backfiring/popping through intake manifold

    Hi everbody, so my e30ic came up with a problem I can't really wrap my head around. It began began when I parked it for a few weeks. Ran and drove fine, until I started it one afternoon. Idle was slightly rough, cloud of smoke blew out the tailpipe on start up. Off never done that before.

    Apply light throttle, revs fine, given sharp throttle, it breaks up, pops through the intake manifold. First thought, check timing marks and spark plug, test or swap afm. Couple weeks went by, I've been away from the car and haven't had much time to work on the car.

    Video

    This is my last resort, before I sell it. Recently picked up a wrecked 97 m3 and intended to build my own car for next summer as my e30ic is my dd and hasn't had any issue's. Not the case now, I just wanna brain storm with you guys for a bit, get a list of what to check, test and assess. Just uploaded a video of what it's doing a quick search can pull it up, I'm on my mobile and am unsure how to link it to here atm.
    Last edited by CartersE30; 08-16-2014, 01:04 PM.

    #2
    Bump Video added

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      #3
      Check cam timing, the condition of the harmonic balancer, and rail fuel pressure.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        No gauge and if you pull the vac line leading to the fpr. Is it suppose to die out or idle up?

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          #5
          Mine would rev higher when I disconnected it, and stall out if I plugged the line.

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            #6
            Cps
            @IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D

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              #7
              542 from cps testing plug right to left

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                #8
                seem to be Certainly not running on 6 cyl even when you rev it slow
                1989 BMW 325is Lachsilber metallic 5 speed
                2007 BMW 335i KARMESINROT 6 Speed manual
                2011 BMW X5 35I

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                  #9
                  Don't forget the electrical side, ignition coil, high tension wires, distributor caps and rotor.

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                    #10
                    Truthfully I'm not sure familiar with how a good running m20 should sound. It's prolly do for cap and rotor but ran fine before it was parked.

                    Valves need adjusted I know that but could it cause what I'm experiencing?

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