The "BAD" List on my New to Me E30

[Navarone]

The stock air box is just fine, it pulls in cold air, if you just did k&n filter that's ok, but putting on a shorter intake in place of the box will pull in hot engine compartment air.

The popular choice is the z3 1.9 shifter, it's a good choice for ease of use and length, but you have to get under the car to take it out. My local pick n pull is paved in mud and broken glass. Also, the ball on that one is plastic so it may be just as worn out as yours. Your 87 might be metal or plastic, not sure. Look at the easy to remove bushings, if they're not worn out then snag em too. The only one I can't seem to find is the rear shift arm bushing that mounts to the chassis, most everything else is available aftermarket, but more costly than pick n pull.

Most broken stuff is plastic clips and other old brittle stuff, like every clip that holds down the wiring harness, or door card clips, dome lights, shift boot frame, hvac radio bezel, stuff inside the gauge cluster, so if you plan on taking anything apart make sure you grab replacement clips and plugs and stuff.

Also grab premium speakers and tweeters, they're a pretty great upgrade and go for about $50 a set.

Also try and grab oem stuff that gets lost or worn out, tool kit, jack, floor mats, exterior lights/lenses, ect. You might even want to look for the molded rubber intake parts that cause vacuum leaks.

You want new wheels too right?

[Bullhead]

The stock air box is just fine, it pulls in cold air, if you just did k&n filter that's ok, but putting on a shorter intake in place of the box will pull in hot engine compartment air.

The popular choice is the z3 1.9 shifter, it's a good choice for ease of use and length, but you have to get under the car to take it out. My local pick n pull is paved in mud and broken glass. Also, the ball on that one is plastic so it may be just as worn out as yours. Your 87 might be metal or plastic, not sure. Look at the easy to remove bushings, if they're not worn out then snag em too. The only one I can't seem to find is the rear shift arm bushing that mounts to the chassis, most everything else is available aftermarket, but more costly than pick n pull.

Most broken stuff is plastic clips and other old brittle stuff, like every clip that holds down the wiring harness, or door card clips, dome lights, shift boot frame, hvac radio bezel, stuff inside the gauge cluster, so if you plan on taking anything apart make sure you grab replacement clips and plugs and stuff.

Also grab premium speakers and tweeters, they're a pretty great upgrade and go for about $50 a set.

Also try and grab oem stuff that gets lost or worn out, tool kit, jack, floor mats, exterior lights/lenses, ect. You might even want to look for the molded rubber intake parts that cause vacuum leaks.

You want new wheels too right?

Roger that, I am about to tear into some goodness this weekend lol. I definitely am getting a jack and the tool kit, and a spare (will Honda or VW spares get a man home without spacers?) I am also after another window motor (pass side) my pulla part doesn't have the wheels on the cars they sell them to scrap right off the get go, something about insurance I think. I may snag the wiper relay too because Bav Recycle has them on ebay so ima try a used one, relays at pap are just $2.50.

[ELVA164]

If you get a window motor, make sure it's from the same "series" as your car. If you have plastic bumpers, you need the motor from a plastic-bumper car. If not, you have to grab the motor, regulator, and the window itself because the window attachment points are different between early and late models.

[Navarone]

Not sure about other 4x100 wheels fitting, BMW uses flat lug bolts and Hondas use acorn/rounded lug nuts. Also not sure about the hubcentric size.

[Bullhead]

Roger that on both posts. I have a aluminum bumper car so I will only look at the 86 for the motor.

[ELVA164]

Roger that on both posts. I have a aluminum bumper car so I will only look at the 86 for the motor.

Dunno how much work you're looking to do, but the late-model regulator design is much better than the early one, with less likelihood of getting "sticky" and slowing the window down/burning the motor out. Up to you though, lubricating the early regular should keep it working fine. All four of mine do so far.

[Bullhead]

Thanks again ELVA.