Car cranking, but not starting(Now with spark!)

[ST1G]

Just yank the pos and throw in a m50 do a budget swap.

The only "budget swap' I would consider is an m30.

[2002tiiguy]

That's what I'd do

[ST1G]

My bad, thought I read everything

It's cool. It's just one of this problems that is extremely detail oriented, and I k ow it's an 8 page thread. I should update the OP.

I do plan on checking the coil for signal. I need a helper though so it has to wait till tonight. I tried last night with the Multi Meter on the negative(pin 1) and body ground and when cranking I never get continuity. But I think what I should have done was across pin 1 and 15 (positive on coil)

[2002tiiguy]

My bad, thought I read everything

[ST1G]

Stop with the random guessing about fuel and air shit. Lets get the spark problem figured out.

This time 1000

I really appreciate the help from everyone, but it's frustrating when you post before reading, and are tossing out an idea that has already been tested and ruled out.

The other thing that I meant to ask is if you have an aftermarket alarm or tach in the car.
Either of these would tie into the coil trigger wire.

I have a euro clock installed. But the car will run even without a cluster in, IIRC.

Stupid question, did you check fuses?

Again, post 66.

[2002tiiguy]

Also, take a test light and clip it to positive and negative on the coil, see if it blinks when you crank it

[2002tiiguy]

Stupid question, did you check fuses?

[HennaE30]

Just yank the pos and throw in a m50 do a budget swap.

[solo318]

The other thing that I meant to ask is if you have an aftermarket alarm or tach in the car.
Either of these would tie into the coil trigger wire.

[solo318]

Look guys. Ignore everything else until you get spark. The spark is triggered directly from the CPS and is the first thing that comes live when the ecu sees engine rotation. Stop with the random guessing about fuel and air shit. Lets get the spark problem figured out.
Most fluke meters have an RPM setting if yours does not than you will need to measure a/c voltage at the cps connector with the connector unplugged. Make sure you have a reasonable amount of voltage. What is the cranking voltage of the car (while the starter is engaged).

[EyExR]

I'd go through the list again and double check everything. Make sure all sensor clips are well seated and the C191 connector under your manifold is nice and snug with no loose or fouled wires. And check for continuity at the fusible link.

[iceman]

The ecu tells the pump to turn on. The ecu also turns the coil on. They should happen at the same time. If the fuel is turning on and the spark is not there, it tells you the ecu has what it needs and your fault is somewhere in the ignition. If the spark and fuel is not there you know the ecu is not getting what it needs.

The fuel pump running will tell you the crank sensor is working.

[ST1G]

Has the car always had a manual transmission?

According to the vin decoder it has.

[ST1G]

If you are dead positive you have no spark (I don't know what you are doing to test it), the pump shouldn't be running either. This means the ecu is not getting coolant temp or crank position. I think on an m20 it may need afm signal too.



No the idle control valve is not part of the spark, but it is the air. If the valve is stuck, the car won't start.

I'm testing spark in a garage with no windows at night, I would see even the faintest spark. My Method of producing spark works fine on my other m20 e30 with the same coil, wire, and plug.

I don't hear the fuel pump running either. Coolant temp and afm are not mentioned in the Bentley as required for ignition.

Right now my main focus is getting spark. It's step two in an engine firing. Once I get spark I'll move onto fuel.

[iceman]

Has the car always had a manual transmission?