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E30 batter not holding a charge

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    E30 batter not holding a charge

    So i bought a brand new battery AND alternator for my 88iX and it will only start up once once its fully charged up. I have no idea how it could possibly be draining/not recharging. Anyone have ideas???


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    #2


    If your vehicle is drawing power from the battery and all of the lights and other electrical components are off, you might have a parasitic battery drain (or draw). Luckily, you can usually find the cause of a parasitic draw yourself....


    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=288351edit: I think your 88 iX doesn't have the charging circuit bulb issue, but you should still inspect the circuit for connectivity, especially if you possibly didn't hook it up when replacing the alternator.
    '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
    NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
    Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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      #3
      Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...45#post1801045

      If your vehicle is drawing power from the battery and all of the lights and other electrical components are off, you might have a parasitic battery drain (or draw). Luckily, you can usually find the cause of a parasitic draw yourself....


      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=288351edit: I think your 88 iX doesn't have the charging circuit bulb issue, but you should still inspect the circuit for connectivity, especially if you possibly didn't hook it up when replacing the alternator.

      I will look into these thank you alot. I think it has to be some kind of parasitic battery drain. Also, When i replaced the alternator i only hooked up the two cables that go directly on the alternator (exciter or positive and negative not exactly sure what theure called) Was i supposed to hook up something else?


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        #4
        Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...45#post1801045

        If your vehicle is drawing power from the battery and all of the lights and other electrical components are off, you might have a parasitic battery drain (or draw). Luckily, you can usually find the cause of a parasitic draw yourself....


        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=288351edit: I think your 88 iX doesn't have the charging circuit bulb issue, but you should still inspect the circuit for connectivity, especially if you possibly didn't hook it up when replacing the alternator.

        One more thing. When i replaced my battery I think it possibly blew the fuse on my radio. I have been driving with it blown for a while because i have never gotten around to fix it. Could that be a problem?


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          #5
          Whatcha have as far as testers, DMM? Test light?
          -Dave
          2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville

          Need some help figuring out the ETM?

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            #6
            Originally posted by DaveSmed View Post
            Whatcha have as far as testers, DMM? Test light?

            I have a multimeter Yes.


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              #7
              Excellent. Attach your black probe to something beefy on the body like the hood roller bracket by the fusebox, fire the engine up, and touch the red probe to the metal case of the alternator. Whatcha got?
              -Dave
              2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville

              Need some help figuring out the ETM?

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                #8
                The alt only has two wires and the car should be able to start anywhere from 9-12v. A missing radio fuse won't have an effect on the battery. Maybe check if either of the wires are broken or frayed? I broke one trying to get it off because of a nut that didn't need to be there

                I've heard of the voltage regulator causing problem but also if the battery charge light in the dash is burnt out, that will also cause the car to not charge the battery (lol germans)

                When I bought a new (rebuilt) alt from autozone they tested it on a pulley with a machine at the store. It's possible your alt may be doa.


                it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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                  #9
                  Hey guys thanks for your input. I believe Ive got the problem sorted out... Car has started up with no problems for the past few days so the battery must be getting charged...


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                    #10
                    Ok well i was wrong and there is a parasitic battery draw... I tried doing a test by putting a multi meter in series with the negative battery terminal and it was drawing i belive over 100 mA ... i tried pulling all the fuses but it never went significantly down... Im stumped on this issue :( any ideas?


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                      #11
                      Have you even verified that the battery is being charged?

                      It's very simple. You place the multi meter black probe on the negative, and red probe on the positive and you see what kind of dc voltage you get with the car running. In the 14v range means that you're getting charging.

                      No sense going after a fantom battery draw if the alternator isn't charging the battery. You just don't have enough information thus far.

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                        #12
                        ^ Do this and see what it tells you. A fully charged battery measures 12.6v. Your alt technically overcharges the battery to be around 13.8-14.4 volts (this is why corrosion happens in the form of white powder on the battery terminals in cars but not in any other battery application). Also your batt has to be near 12v to start the car


                        it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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                          #13
                          ok i will try and let you guys know this afternoon thanks!


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