guys, while the car is parked i have a slow battery drain to the point that after 2 days of no driving she needs a jump. alt and battery both check out ok. my econometer has been acting weird lately and the temp gauge has been acting quirky too. i always have had to bang the dash to get it to work but now she won't respond even with the punch. would i be correct in assuming the ni-cads in the cluster have given up the ghost? if it's the batteries, lithium or ni-cad?
slow battery drain.
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haha I have the same issue with the temp gauge, have to bang it to get it to work. Not sure about the ni-cads, but usually it has to do with that little brass nut in the back of the cluster coming loose.
Also, same issue with the battery. At first, I replaced the alternator because the voltage on the battery was fine. Now it dies after 3-4 days of no driving. I'm assuming it has to do with the battery now, so i'm going to test the battery once again.Harp
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this is what i am thinking seeing as how the problem started at the same time my econometer started acting up.haha I have the same issue with the temp gauge, have to bang it to get it to work. Not sure about the ni-cads, but usually it has to do with that little brass nut in the back of the cluster coming loose.
Also, same issue with the battery. At first, I replaced the alternator because the voltage on the battery was fine. Now it dies after 3-4 days of no driving. I'm assuming it has to do with the battery now, so i'm going to test the battery once again.
sigpicComment
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^ I remember reading something like that too. When you replace them, I'd go with NiCd as they offer twice as many charge cycles as lithium ion and are more reliable over a long period of time.

it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheelsComment
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how hard are they to replace? I've never used a soldering gun before. is it as simple as heating old solder to remove then just reinstall new ones with new solder? also, does anybody have a clear pic as to what/where the solder joints are that i should re-flow while in there?sigpicComment
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There's a few write-ups on the web that show you how to do it. You want to be careful because it's the instrument board and you can fry everything by connecting the wrong wire, but I can't remember which ones. As far as removing them, the batteries (and replacements) have metal tabs welded on that you de solder and then solder to. You want to sandpaper the contacts to remove corrosion and then use flux to ensure a good solder connection afterward

it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheelsComment
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^ find a video on youtube that shows you how to solder. It's not hard at all but you want to make sure you do it right. Get a fine (not thick) solder, avoid cold joints, and use flux. You can get a whole setup at radioshack for like 15 bucks

it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheelsComment
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can bad si batteries drain the battery even though there are no visable signs of anything running. i've read that sometimes the si indicator lights can stay on with the ignition off but not the case on my car. my econo guage has been acting up when the car is running since my slow drain problem started.sigpicComment
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i am now getting a buzzing noise from in the dash only when the key is in the on position and not running also not while in the accessory position. could all these malfunctions come from the si batteries?sigpicComment
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