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I Don't Want To Die - Supporting The Engine Correctly

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    I Don't Want To Die - Supporting The Engine Correctly

    Hi ya'll

    I'm going to be digging into a major repair for my car and considering I'm just a backyard mechanic, I want to make sure I don't die doing this.

    I have a parts coming that I'm going to replace on my e30, all BMW OE parts

    OE Engine Mounts
    OE Transmission Mounts
    OE Oil Pan Gasket
    OE Spark Plugs
    OE Valve Cover Gasket + 4 OE rubber thingys
    OE Guibo
    OE front sway bar end links

    With that said...I'm taking the subframe out of my car to get to the oil pan gasket and also replace the motor mounts and I want to make sure the engine / car doesn't fall on me.

    -Car is being supported via 4 jack stands
    -I have the engine being supported up top via a Harbor Freight engine support brace. I have the chain connected to the front of the engine (there's a loop thing where the cam gear is)
    -A car jack supporting the transmission
    -Second car jack supporting the front of the engine over by the AC compressor.

    Is this safe enough? Or should I go out, buy some longer chains and loop each chain around the motor mount "legs" on either side?

    I'm also debating on replacing my steering rack...but idk if I should go with the same one, or a newer rack like a Z3 rack.

    #2
    There's no right answer to the "is this safe enough" question. But that said, If I had done the things that you have done with jack stands and such, I'd be safe. I just don't know how good at that stuff you are.

    I'd do oil pan gasket first then the engine mounts and get the subframe back on and then do the trans mounts and giubo and the rest.

    Werd.
    Originally posted by Andy.B
    Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
    1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
    ~~~~~~~~~~
    I was born on 3/25…
    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Comment


      #3
      I Don't Want To Die - Supporting The Engine Correctly

      Sounds safe enough to me. Def do a z3 rack of you can.


      1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
      1991 318i 4dr slick top


      Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
      Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
      Mtech 2 turbo restoration
      Brilliantrot slick top "build"

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
        There's no right answer to the "is this safe enough" question. But that said, If I had done the things that you have done with jack stands and such, I'd be safe. I just don't know how good at that stuff you are.

        I'd do oil pan gasket first then the engine mounts and get the subframe back on and then do the trans mounts and giubo and the rest.

        Werd.
        I want to keep the engine supported by the subframe as much as possible. I was going to remove the oil pan gasket, and while i'm "prepping" everything (read, cleaning all the oil), i would put the subframe back on since it's just a few bolts.

        Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
        Sounds safe enough to me. Def do a z3 rack of you can.
        Which rack year should I get? I did a search and have been reading for awhile and I have a few concerns such as bending power steering hoses and such. I really want to do the rack because I think I also need a new universal steering joint and my rack stock rack is leaking. I've replaced new hoses from the power steering reservoir to the pump and to the rack.

        A few people have said to get a rack from Rack Doctor. There are a few ones from different years and, which can cost around $350 - $500. Some people are saying just get it from a junk yard. I read this whole thread about e36 vs Z3 rack vs Z3 M rack...etc...As I kept reading, I kept getting more confused as to what to get...lol

        Comment


          #5
          Id just a get a z3 rack if it was me and if get it from the rack doctor as well. I haven't done mine yet as I was lazy and didn't want to haha


          1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
          1991 318i 4dr slick top


          Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
          Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
          Mtech 2 turbo restoration
          Brilliantrot slick top "build"

          Comment


            #6
            I believe the general consensus on racks is, if you are gonna track it exclusively, go with the z3. If you ever drive on the interstate, get a plain ole e36 rack.
            Originally posted by Andy.B
            Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
            1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
            ~~~~~~~~~~
            I was born on 3/25…
            ~~~~~~~~~~

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
              I believe the general consensus on racks is, if you are gonna track it exclusively, go with the z3. If you ever drive on the interstate, get a plain ole e36 rack.
              Is that because the Z3 rack is "too fast"?

              Comment


                #8
                E36 rack is progressive, Z3 rack is linear. So right off center the E36 rack isn't too fast, like for highway driving, but the Z3 might be. It's all personal opinion though.

                The only thing I would worry about with your setup is using jacks to hold things. Jacks are made for lifting, not holding. They could potentially fail and drop whatever the are holding. Pick up another pair of stands from Harbor Freight. Print a 20% off coupon from the web (Google image search) and they are cheap.

                Also, there is a second lift point on the back of the engine and the drivers side. It is a loop cast into the block. Usually you put a chain from here to the front lifting eye near the timing belt cover (the one you are using now). You can see the loop here, top right:

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
                  E36 rack is progressive, Z3 rack is linear. So right off center the E36 rack isn't too fast, like for highway driving, but the Z3 might be. It's all personal opinion though.

                  The only thing I would worry about with your setup is using jacks to hold things. Jacks are made for lifting, not holding. They could potentially fail and drop whatever the are holding. Pick up another pair of stands from Harbor Freight. Print a 20% off coupon from the web (Google image search) and they are cheap.

                  Also, there is a second lift point on the back of the engine and the drivers side. It is a loop cast into the block. Usually you put a chain from here to the front lifting eye near the timing belt cover (the one you are using now). You can see the loop here, top right:

                  Great tips! And you're exactly right...i should go get another set of jackstands to support the rest of the stuff. I'm not gonna jew out on $20 for jackstands and something bad happens.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I just swapped my rack - its worth it
                    89 e30 white vert
                    88 e30 Red vert
                    2003 330i sedan
                    2011 E93 335is
                    2007 Z4Si (gone)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Just ordered an E36 steering rack from Rack Doctor with e36 inner and outer tie rods. Also placed an order for fresh exhaust manifold gaskets, manifold to collector gaskets, all new hard ware for the exhaust system and a new universal joint for the new steering rack. Can't wait to feel the difference!

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