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ADRudenko 335is turbo build

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    ADRudenko 335is turbo build

    So I started piecing parts together to swap in a m30b35 into an e30 and then turbo it later on down the road

    Here's what I have:
    1989 m30b35
    1989 getrag 260/6
    Resurfaced head
    Cleaned and machines head
    New valve seals
    New timing chain and guides
    Mls cosmetic (.140) headgasket
    Arp head studs
    New plugs
    New throw out bearing
    New hoses

    1987 325is that I'm swapping this into

    Here's what I need help with:
    Fuel management system? I was thinking ms3
    Motor mounts, can I weld in supports in my 325is to use the stock m30 engine mounts?
    What is wasted spark
    What is edis
    What is a daughter board
    Can I use the stock headers and a y pipe for my turbo manifold?
    Should I do twin or single turbo?
    How much psi could I push in what I have done with the engine so far
    What else could I do and should I get before I start the swap

    #2
    Edis is fords distributorless electronic ignition system, there is edis 4/6/8. Do one turbo, can push 15 psi stock internals, would need new turbo manifold, you want a lot of things before turbo charging it. Look at my build thread
    Soon to be turbo'd M10. Safari Beige Goodness :devil::devil:

    (00=[][]=00)

    Comment


      #3
      It's not really what psi you can push, it's what power figure you can make reliably with the way your torque comes "on".
      We don't know what fuel you're using, size of your turbo, and you also just dropped your compression quite a bit with that gasket - so who knows what psi it can ingest!

      Research builds to see what tq. m30's made before bending stuff.

      1991 325iS turbo

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        So I started piecing parts together to swap in a m30b35 into an e30 and then turbo it later on down the road
        It's the best when people are talking about their car build and they say "later on down the road" cuz dats what cars do. drive down roads. :)

        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        Here's what I have:
        1989 m30b35
        1989 getrag 260/6
        Resurfaced head
        Cleaned and machines head
        New valve seals
        New timing chain and guides
        Mls cosmetic (.140) headgasket
        Arp head studs
        New plugs
        New throw out bearing
        New hoses
        Good stuff :up:

        As ak- said
        Originally posted by ak- View Post
        you also just dropped your compression quite a bit with that gasket
        The lower compression will make for less fun until you get the turbo setup. Might suggest saving the .140 headgasket for until then depending on how long you will be driving NA. However, I don't know how big of a difference it will make personally. I haven't done the swap yet myself, just researched.

        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        Here's what I need help with:
        Fuel management system? I was thinking ms3
        Todd at TDC suggests ms3.

        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        Motor mounts, can I weld in supports in my 325is to use the stock m30 engine mounts?
        Why not use Garigastic M30 conversion mounts? They're already fabricated to hold the engine with the driveline being perfectly level.

        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        What is wasted spark
        What is edis
        What is a daughter board
        Can I use the stock headers and a y pipe for my turbo manifold?


        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        Should I do twin or single turbo?
        Single for an inline six like the M30. Twin will just add weight, cost, and complexity.

        Unless you were doing a sequential turbo setup where there was a smaller turbo for lower RPMs and a larger turbo for higher RPMs. Then there would be a huge benefit as boost would be more available in more ranges of the power band.

        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        How much psi could I push in what I have done with the engine so far
        You could probably run upwards of 20psi with the headgasket and studs. Will also probably start breaking axle shafts with that much power.

        I'm not sure what psi the B35 head is good to though. I have read about them cracking around the bolts at higher pressures. Todd at TDC however claims that this is an 'internet myth'.

        Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post
        What else could I do and should I get before I start the swap
        Radiator?
        Clutch?
        Driveshaft?
        Taller geared differential?
        A diaper? (for when you hit boost)
        Last edited by Self Made; 02-23-2015, 01:48 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Alright little update here... I decided to toss the mls gasket idea and o ring my block as I did more research.

          From what I have gathered o ringing is more reliable and theoretically should hold more boost.

          I just finished tearing down my engine and sending the block off to get my o ring grooves cut.
          Here's a few more bits and pieces I bought for the m30b35
          Freeze plugs
          Paint
          Gasket kit
          New Piston rings
          And a lot of cleaning with diesel a scotchbbrite pad and a brass brush

          Now here is what I have discovered for engine management.
          I bought an ms3x unit
          I wired it to my stock m20b25 and got it running through the motronic 1.3 harness
          I plan on running wasted spark with logic level could being pushed by a Quadspark module
          I have the coil and everything is set for wasted spark mode now
          I'm just running a vr sensor. A hall sensor seemed to be a bit too complicated of an install for me, will this be a problem in the future?

          Here is what I have planned for the drivetrain:
          I plan on running a dual mass flywheel and a spec stage 3+ clutch kit for a 735il.
          I plan on running the smaller output shaft out of my old transmission in order to be able to use the stock 5 speed driveline in the car
          I plan on getting beefier half shafts
          I already have a 3.73 lsd so I'm thinking that will be plenty for now

          For turbo:
          I plan on building a and welding my own "log" type turbo manifold. It will most likely be a bottom mount manifold. I plan on running an oil cooler somewhere either in my turbo feed line or my turbo return line.. That's where I need your help.
          I can't decide weather to run a water to air intercooler or traditional air to air intercooler.. Which is more efficient?

          That's pretty much it.. Am I missing anything?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ADRudenko View Post

            That's pretty much it.. Am I missing anything?
            You'll find plenty of little thing that pop up, trust me :)

            Are you going to top-mount or bottom-mount your turbo? That could affect which engine mount arms you need, as most are not designed to clear bottom-mount turbos.
            You'll need to find a good way of getting oil to and from the turbo.
            Air/air intercoolers are usually easier to plumb, but air/water can be more efficient if done correctly.
            You'll need gauges to monitor everything.
            single/twin scroll won't matter with a log manifold, it's all mute at that point.

            Check out my build thread if you want, there might be some useful stuff in there for you.

            Comment


              #7
              Bottom mount as I said in the previous post.. I just feel like there is more room under the manifolds rather than above.. Correct me if I'm wrong.

              Comment


                #8
                I know you can do a rear bottom mount or a top front mount (there's room for those and they've been done before) but I'm not sure about other configurations.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Then I'll go rear bottom. I want to build my own manifold using the stock headers. I'm also planning on running a 76mm .95 t6 single scroll turbo if that makes a difference. I

                  In other news:
                  I put my head back together using double the spring retainers for the rockers. I didn't think rocker locks were necessary but decided the added security of double the spring resistance would keep the rockers in place, is this a bad idea..? I think it will work but what are some possible downfalls to this?

                  What do you think of the o ringing?

                  Comment

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