Car won't start with crank

[Bomber1]

my car currently isnt starting, the engine is fully cranking but not turning over and i can smell fuel when it is cranking. i just recently replaced the cap and rotor and the car has been running great. last night is when the problem started so i checked both sides of all 6 spark pluig wires and found this one corroded plug that plugs into the distributor. could this be the problem or would having one bad wire just cause a misfire issue? a friend said that he thinks all lines into the distrib need to be good in order to distribute power back and forth to and from the distributor.

just for some background on what happened right before this happened:

i drove my car from a cold start about a 15 second distance, from parking lot to outfront of my workplace. i left my car running for about 45 minutes because i went back in and finished up working. i went back out with my friend and he said come check out my car. i hopped in my car and rode back down to my original parking space, the car sounded fine, deep hum like it does when its all warmed up. i sat next to my friend for about 30 seconds then when i drove back towards my work, the car had a sudden drop in power, drove for another 10 seconds and then just slowed to a stop and rolled to a stop a few inches. immediately tried to start my car and got to the point im at now, car hasnt moved

[ST1G]

Check for spark. Use a test light to test the coil is sending spark. Place the test light so it's touching the pin and turn the car over. The bulb should light up. I

f you're getting ligth when you crank, or if you don't have a test light then test the wires by plugging one of the spark plug wires directly into the coil with a plug on the other end. Ground the plug with a jumper cable (grab the threads of the plug with one end of the jumper cable, and ground the other end, one of the strut nuts works great usually. Use either the positive side, or negative side of the jumper cables, it doens't matter which) Check each spark pug wire like this, you should be getting spark through each. If there is one that you don't get spark through you know you need new cables. I like to use a known good plug.

Start there and report back.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Yep could be bad plug wires or your coil.

[ST1G]

Yep could be bad plug wires or your coil.

Or a short in c101

[Bomber1]

i'll share some feedback tomorrow of all the things i check out. i just haven't been able to get to it since it's a 2 person job having to crank to perform the tests.

[ST1G]

i'll share some feedback tomorrow of all the things i check out. i just haven't been able to get to it since it's a 2 person job having to crank to perform the tests.

It's not if you do it at night. Then you can easily see spark or a test light.

[Bomber1]

so upon closer inspection today the cap was very loose and being held on by 1 tightened screw, and 1 somewhat tightened screw, 3rd screw missing. I took it off and to my dismay, the inside of the cap was coated with metal shavings and 3 of the contact posts were chipped down. Shining a flash light at the rotor I found another pile of metal shavings and 2 halves of some piece of gold metal that I assume was a part of the rotor. I'm guessing over time my cap decided to back out most likely due to failure by myself to torque down the screws tight enough. Going to order ANOTHER replacement cap and rotor, and I hope I'm safe to assume there was no other damage caused. I can't imagine there would be any other damage based on how this all played out.

[ST1G]

Yeah, I doubt there was any other damage.

[Bomber1]

So I put on the new cap and rotor but now when I try to start it I feel it fire a tiny bit but it won't turn over. I'm clueless

[ST1G]

So I put on the new cap and rotor but now when I try to start it I feel it fire a tiny bit but it won't turn over. I'm clueless

Have you tested for spark?