hey guys thanks for all the help but ive still had no luck. the way i am bleeding it or have tried every way is, haveth eheater going, have the cap on with the expansion tank full and the bleeder screw off. this did nothing. then i tried having both closed and letting it get hot and then cracking the bleeder screw , this also didnt help, then i loosened the cap on the expansion tank and a bunch of suddds came out then coolant, so i kept doing this but all that happened was coolant slinging every where an ddrenching my timing belt , so i stopped,
does any body have the exact way to go about vleeding all the way from the beginning to end.
After all this shit has hapened i gave up and decided to tackle the number 5 cylinder and number 6 cylinder non running condition. ( i figured this out from pulling those plugs and the engines idle did nothing but if you pulled any of the other plugs the motor would start bogging and loping.) so i checked compression to make sure there wasnt a fucking hole in my piston and to make sure the valves where opening and closing properly whic would verify that i had my timing from replacing the timing belt correct. well all 6 cylinders have 200 psi exactly. so all cylinders have amazing compression. i then threw a timing light on the 5 and 6 wires to see if they where firing when installed . yes they are. i then pulled all the plugs and replaced them 5 and 6 were wet as hell and all the rest where light brown. but the weird thing i noticed was 1 through 4 have a tacky substance almost like slug oil or something. im sure from the car sitting and not being ran for so long before i purchased it. i dont know what else to do..... you cant adjust ignition timing on a stock ignition right? also there is a black wire that goes down to the area around the power stearing pulley , this is frayed as fuck.. what is this wire do? also my crank sensor( speed sensor that rest on that vibration plate is barley touhcing that plate , is that the correct spot for it?
Next possibility is if my battery is so fucking dead that it barley turns the car over and i have to use a jump pack most of the time, will this affect my ignition even when the car is running. My bently is on its way but im just not familiar with how bmw's ignition gets its power?? thanks homies
does any body have the exact way to go about vleeding all the way from the beginning to end.
After all this shit has hapened i gave up and decided to tackle the number 5 cylinder and number 6 cylinder non running condition. ( i figured this out from pulling those plugs and the engines idle did nothing but if you pulled any of the other plugs the motor would start bogging and loping.) so i checked compression to make sure there wasnt a fucking hole in my piston and to make sure the valves where opening and closing properly whic would verify that i had my timing from replacing the timing belt correct. well all 6 cylinders have 200 psi exactly. so all cylinders have amazing compression. i then threw a timing light on the 5 and 6 wires to see if they where firing when installed . yes they are. i then pulled all the plugs and replaced them 5 and 6 were wet as hell and all the rest where light brown. but the weird thing i noticed was 1 through 4 have a tacky substance almost like slug oil or something. im sure from the car sitting and not being ran for so long before i purchased it. i dont know what else to do..... you cant adjust ignition timing on a stock ignition right? also there is a black wire that goes down to the area around the power stearing pulley , this is frayed as fuck.. what is this wire do? also my crank sensor( speed sensor that rest on that vibration plate is barley touhcing that plate , is that the correct spot for it?
Next possibility is if my battery is so fucking dead that it barley turns the car over and i have to use a jump pack most of the time, will this affect my ignition even when the car is running. My bently is on its way but im just not familiar with how bmw's ignition gets its power?? thanks homies
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