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Calling all central locking gurus!

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    Calling all central locking gurus!

    My question is does the fusible link in my control module keep coming apart because my actuators are bad? or is it something else, because as far as I can tell there are no shorts in the wiring anywhere. I can not figure out what is causing the red/black wire to run too much voltage through it then blowing the fuse.
    I am hesitant to install new actuators in the car if the the electrical side of things isn't going to work and the fusible link is just going to keep coming apart. I am ok with the lock cylinders not working as I just want to get it to the point where I can install keyless entry. Any answers, advice or insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by 306e30; 04-18-2016, 01:59 AM.

    #2
    Can you arrange that into readable paragraphs and maybe add some pictures? I doubt anyone is going to read through that mess.
    sigpic
    1987 325e Lachssilber w/ MarkD chip and late bumpers, Zender EVO spoiler, s3.25 LSD

    Originally posted by nando
    I don't think there's really strong evidence that ZDDP harms cats.

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      #3
      I didnt read it, check your circuitry on the central lock module for breaks. Then check that your lock actuators are actually functional.
      Renting my rear wheel bearing tool kit. SIR
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        #4
        Ouch. That hurts to read.

        If your trunk lock is seized, that will blow the fusible link in the central locking. Disconnect the trunk actuator and try again.
        Any high resistance in any of the door locks can cause the link to blow, or the locks to kick back open.
        Originally posted by codyep3
        I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
        2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
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          #5
          I have replaced all actuators and my locks still aren't working. There have been plenty of clicks and buzzes from actuators and the central locks module, but I still can not get one lock to make any of the other ones lock or unlock even though there is power to all actuators.
          I have a pretty good understanding of most things electrical on e30s but I am absolutely stumped with this locking system. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the micro switches but I have no idea how to confirm any problem.
          I never thought I'd ever consider this, but I might have to take it to an independent shop and see if they can fix it because I really have no idea how to progress any further.

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            #6
            Originally posted by 306e30 View Post
            I have replaced all actuators and my locks still aren't working. There have been plenty of clicks and buzzes from actuators and the central locks module, but I still can not get one lock to make any of the other ones lock or unlock even though there is power to all actuators.
            I have a pretty good understanding of most things electrical on e30s but I am absolutely stumped with this locking system. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the micro switches but I have no idea how to confirm any problem.
            I never thought I'd ever consider this, but I might have to take it to an independent shop and see if they can fix it because I really have no idea how to progress any further.
            So i JUST finished debugging and fixing my central locks yesterday. Most of the system is fresh in my mind.

            First, in case you haven't, get your troubleshooting manual: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...)-For-Download

            Referring to the plug that connects the controller, pins 1 & 2 are power to the actuators. 3 is +12VDC and 4 is ground. In its normal state, the control unit connects both pins 1 & 2 to ground. When the relays switch, they connect +12VDC to pins 1 or 2 depending on if you are locking or unlocking. They also complete a circuit through the 'fuse'. It appeared to be a 34ohm resistor. This will heat up slowly and with enough time, break the solder joint and open the circuit.

            So where do you start? Get your multi-meter with FUSED amp meter and directly jumper the actuators. See how much they draw. Do they lock and un-lock when jumpered directly? If they draw too much, start by disconnecting them one by one. The doors can be disconnected by unplugging them from the body. While you are in there, inspect the connectors. This is a common point of failure though usually it fails open, not shorted out.
            1987 325i Convertible
            2015 Fiesta SFE: 1.0L of 'Woah, is that torque under 2k?'

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