1991 318is Stomp code 1222 woes.. Replaced many parts to no avail.

[formyhealth]

Hey everyone,
UPDATE!!

I fixed the issue, what seemed like a vacuum leak with all of it's symptoms turned out to be a faulty fuel pump! It makes sense the more I think about it, but the symptoms were VERY similar to a vacuum leak (bogging, stuttering, falling on it's face at WOT)
Just wanted to share in case anyone else is struggling with these symptoms.


I am reaching out for help as I am exhausted with trying to track down this code 1222 on a 1991 318is.

I purchased the car knowing full well that it had idle and bucking/hesitation issues while under load. I figured it would be an "easy" fix (vacuum lines or some thing).

Well I've replaced:

all intake gaskets (runners to head, manifold to runners, TB to manifold.
all vacuum lines ("mess under the intake" stuff)
replaced both temp sensors (blue and brown)
cleaned and inspected ICV
replaced all 4 coils with new OEM coils
replaced 4 sparkplugs


Then I tried running again, instead of code 1222 I was getting code 1215 (MAF sensors stuff)

SO, I replaced:

Air Flow Meter
Throttle Position Sensor

Now today after replacing those I am getting code 1222 again, no more code 1215..

So I check fuel as code 1222 is a lean condition usually, and undid the rear seat and notice that the fuel pump cover only has 2 screws holding it down..

OK

Then I find this monstrosity:



It appears that the PO had broken this clip and decided to zip tie it back together. I can hear the pump change frequency when I push and pull on the broken clip.


Does anyone have any advice for me regarding this issue? It's really unfortunate and I just want to drive the car.

PS, here is a clip of what the engine does under load (don't mind the zip ties holding the throttle cable to it's post, I've got a new cable in the mail)

[roguetoaster]

If you still have that added in resistor section going to the AFM remove that for starters. If no result I'd check timing.

Failing that you can increase idle speed and unplug electronics one component at a time to check for a change in operating condition.

Have you replaced the O2 sensor? Does this issue happe cold and warm? Under the relay cover passenger side is that forward single pin connector unplugged?

[formyhealth]

If you still have that added in resistor section going to the AFM remove that for starters. If no result I'd check timing.

Failing that you can increase idle speed and unplug electronics one component at a time to check for a change in operating condition.

Have you replaced the O2 sensor? Does this issue happen cold and warm? Under the relay cover passenger side is that forward single pin connector unplugged?

Thanks for the response, to address some questions;

the resistor has been removed when I replaced the afm, no change.

Is increasing the idle speed as easy as adjusting the idle stop on the TB?

I do have a replacement o2 sensor, haven't installed it yet (though the current sensor looks to be a newer replacement)

I have tried unplugging the afm and running, no good or worse, then tried unplugging the o2 sensor, no good or worse, then I tried unplugging the tps and again no good or worse.
(btw these were all one sensor at a time, not all at once)

Where should I look on the passenger side for the single pin connector? Near where the battery normally is?

Thank you again if you have any other ideas I am open to getting this resolved and hopefully can answer other peoples questions as well.

[roguetoaster]

Thanks for the response, to address some questions;

the resistor has been removed when I replaced the afm, no change.

Is increasing the idle speed as easy as adjusting the idle stop on the TB?

I do have a replacement o2 sensor, haven't installed it yet (though the current sensor looks to be a newer replacement)

I have tried unplugging the afm and running, no good or worse, then tried unplugging the o2 sensor, no good or worse, then I tried unplugging the tps and again no good or worse.
(btw these were all one sensor at a time, not all at once)

Where should I look on the passenger side for the single pin connector? Near where the battery normally is?

Thank you again if you have any other ideas I am open to getting this resolved and hopefully can answer other peoples questions as well.

You can adjust idle with the stop (don't break the adjuster as it's quite fragile) or at the cable if yours is still capable.

It's very odd that unplugging items would cause no change in operation. Have you verified spark and fuel at all four cylinders? It's also possible that the fuel & spark map/chip in the DME is faulty.

The pin is on the passenger side under the black plastic cover high on the firewall. It should be zip tied to the rest of the wire bundle.

I would still encourage you to verify timing.

[Das Delfin]

1222 is primarily your O2 sensor.. I would swap that even if it looks new

[formyhealth]

1222 is primarily your O2 sensor.. I would swap that even if it looks new

Thank you for the reply, I bought a Bosch o2 sensor recently, would it be wise to run that or should I get an OEM sensor?

I'll try tonight and get back with results.

*EDIT*

I replaced the o2 sensor with no success, didn't get worse though so I've got that going for me, which is good.

[formyhealth]

You can adjust idle with the stop (don't break the adjuster as it's quite fragile) or at the cable if yours is still capable.

It's very odd that unplugging items would cause no change in operation. Have you verified spark and fuel at all four cylinders? It's also possible that the fuel & spark map/chip in the DME is faulty.

The pin is on the passenger side under the black plastic cover high on the firewall. It should be zip tied to the rest of the wire bundle.

I would still encourage you to verify timing.

Thank you again for the response.

As far as unplugging items, the changes that were had when I unplugged them were for the worse, meaning no ability to rev, or stalling completely. It is strange that none of them made it better.

I'll have a look tonight at that pin, should it be attached to some thing or loose?

Could I verify spark the old school way with a removed lead and a spare plug or will that damage the engine?

Have to go pickup a timing light to check that, lead goes onto cylinder 1 wire correct?

Thank you again,

Danny

[kronus]

Have you done a smoke test? This sounds like a vacuum leak.

I chased similar symptoms for a long time and eventually found a missing oring between the master and booster.

[formyhealth]

Have you done a smoke test? This sounds like a vacuum leak.

I chased similar symptoms for a long time and eventually found a missing oring between the master and booster.

It's funny you're the second person who has brought up that damn oring between the booster..

I have one on order now!

I really should have it smoke tested, I am just sort of a cheapskate and was trying to track it down myself, if push comes to shove that's what I'll do.

It sure does SEEM like a vacuum leak..

;)

[formyhealth]

So a little update, I am taking it to BMW today to have them run a smoke test on it, I noticed when I unplugged the vacuum hose running to the brake booster and then plugging it with my finger allowed the car to actually build SOME revs, still stumbly though. Hopefully I can update with a conclusion tomorrow.

[kronus]

block off the booster nipple with something, clear the codes and let it idle for a while. if the code doesn't come back, it's a leak in your booster or between your booster and master cylinder.

[AndrewBird]

See this message here:

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18611.msg127819#msg127819

The pictures are all gone, but there is a connector up against the firewall under the plastic covers. If this is plugged in, the car will not run correctly. Make sure it is unplugged.

[formyhealth]

block off the booster nipple with something, clear the codes and let it idle for a while. if the code doesn't come back, it's a leak in your booster or between your booster and master cylinder.

I'll go ahead and try that, thank you!

[formyhealth]

See this message here:

http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=18611.msg127819#msg127819

The pictures are all gone, but there is a connector up against the firewall under the plastic covers. If this is plugged in, the car will not run correctly. Make sure it is unplugged.

So am I looking dead center in the firewall area? the plastic covers are long go so all I see are the wire bundles, is the connector in that area? Is it a bullet style connector or a eyelet style that connects with a bolt?

Thank you for the info so far

[formyhealth]

**EDIT**

I found the black/white wire and plug but unfortunately/fortunately is was already unplugged so back to the drawing board..

I forewent a smoke test tonight in lieu of replace the 2 wire power connector on the fuel pump, I noticed when I apply pressure to the plug that I was able to rev the engine with minimal misfire or hesitation.

I am really leaning towards fuel pump with a small vacuum leak exacerbating the issue.

Where would be a good spot to place an inline fuel pressure gauge? I didn't see a Schrader valve to connect one to.