Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Grind/rubbing noise when opening/closing door

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Grind/rubbing noise when opening/closing door

    So when I open and close the door there is a noise that didnt sound right so I looked a little closer and it looks as if this part is rubbing, I dont know what it is called.

    I was wondering if there is a way to adjust or replace this part to fix the problem.
    Attached Files

    #2
    what is that picture of? the body side or the door side?

    The door side is just a check link on two ballbearing wheels.. held in in with two 10mm head bolts upper and lower.. Its a pretty simple design. They can get clogged with crap over the years and its worthwhile cleaning and regreasing. Just unbolt and take the assembly out from inside the door.

    On the other end the arm fixes to the body side and a slide pin goes between a couple of eyelets. The mounted eyelets are spot welded behind the A pillar and can break off causing knocking and creaking.. It looks like in that picture it may be the body side and the eyelet has broken off and still attached to the arm on the checkstrap and floating around inside the pillar.

    Does the door freely open without resistance and then clunk? have you looked at the other door to see if anything looks different? Does it still open in two stages?
    Boris - 89 E30 325i
    84- E30 323i

    Comment


      #3
      If this is what I think it is, it gets tricky to fix. Let me try to explain. The door brake bolts into the side of the door itself and has an arm that extends to a pin that mates up with another piece mounted inside the body pillar. The spot welds can fail on that part inside the pillar.

      The attached picture is of my A pillar with the fender removed. On the left side you can see a circle where the spot weld has failed. I highlighted the cracks in the metal. On the right side you can see the end of the piece that is mounted inside A pillar.

      What I ended up doing was welding a plate over the failed metal, drilling out the spot welds and tapping the hole and installing a bolt. Two on the outside of the A pillar and one in the door gap of the A pillar.
      Attached Files
      2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

      Comment


        #4
        interesting.. didnt know they were braced on the outside of the A pillar as well.. Its usually the one spotwelds that crap on the pin side
        Boris - 89 E30 325i
        84- E30 323i

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by bangn View Post
          interesting.. didnt know they were braced on the outside of the A pillar as well.. Its usually the one spotwelds that crap on the pin side
          Well Bangn, I discovered the failing spot weld on the pin side a bit later. After tapping the outside of the A pillar it was better but not right. In frustration I ordered a new door brake itself. When pulling the old door brake out, I noticed the spot weld on the inside. After drilling and tapping the other two, I'm a bit better / quicker now. Only took a few minutes and that one is now firmly in place and the door opens, brakes and closes properly.

          30+ year old car, I guess we have to expect these things.
          2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

          Comment

          Working...
          X