Two electrical problems...

[Bimmerfanatik]

1. Passenger side front window does not operate. No up, no down. All other windows work just fine. Hooked up direct power to the window, and it works fine. No idea what the problem is...

2. Every so often, left side turn signal doesn't work. Just clicks fast, no bulbs work. If I try it enough times, it works perfectly. Can't seem to trace any pattern or cause. Is there a fuse/relay for just the left hand turn signal?

[AdamF 88iS]

Swtich for the window.

Have to dig into some diagrams to see about the signal though.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Swtich for the window.

Have to dig into some diagrams to see about the signal though.

Tried 3 seperate switches, Adam - safe to say it's not the problem ;)

There was always some extra resistance on the window, whether it be something wrong with the window seals, the regulator, or whatever. It always went up very slowly and fought the last inch or two to close properly.

I considered the idea that the increased resistance created extra heat in the wiring that goes to the window and melted the wire casing, causing a short. Just an idea. Any idea where the wiring is routed? I hate sending new wires over, and would rather repair the short.

Any chance there's a lose filament in one of the bulbs (front or rear turn signal, or even the dash indicator for the LH signal) and when it's not touching, I lose my signal, and when it does touch, I get it back? In other words, what happens if a bulb goes out in the system - do you get the fast flash without any lights or do you still get lights?

[SchnellerVert]

Window sounds like switch but you should have checked that first with out asking us that correct. Switched left to right and vica versa. If that is not it, does it have power at the electrical motor? Ohm out the circuit to check for a short or a break aka ol or out of limits on a digital multimeter.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Window sounds like switch but you should have checked that first with out asking us that correct. Switched left to right and vica versa. If that is not it, does it have power at the electrical motor? Ohm out the circuit to check for a short or a break aka ol or out of limits on a digital multimeter.

My multimeter is a pile of dog poo. I'd have to use the test light to check for power. I can get a better meter and test for continuity from the switch to the motor, but where the wires are routed is needed so I can find the break.

[AdamF 88iS]

Check for corrosion in the door connector for that window. I've seen that do crazy things too.

[Dave]

Check for corrosion in the door connector for that window. I've seen that do crazy things too.

I had this very problem in a Ford Probe I owned about 10 years ago. Corrosion in the connector on the door - messed with the window operation. I pulled it apart, cleaned it out, rigged up a new connector and bingo.

Funny the problem is re-surfacing in another of my former vehicles.

[Bimmerfanatik]

I had this very problem in a Ford Probe I owned about 10 years ago. Corrosion in the connector on the door - messed with the window operation. I pulled it apart, cleaned it out, rigged up a new connector and bingo.

Funny the problem is re-surfacing in another of my former vehicles.

It's YOOUUUUUU lol.

I'll check her out. I may try plugging in another door and operating the window, just to see what happens. Little more work, but it'd help narrow things down...