1985 325e no spark no fuel

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  • scalabroni97
    Noobie
    • Apr 2016
    • 9

    #1

    1985 325e no spark no fuel

    Hello, I have a 1985 325e that was previously sitting for about 5 years. Couple years ago, I replaced the spark plugs and fuel pump to get it out of storage and brought it home. It ran fine for a while but I've been away at college and it's been sitting for about a year. Recently I replaced the dash and carpet trying to get it looking good and now it won't start.

    It does not get spark at the plugs or fuel while cranking so I'm assuming I messed something up behind dash. Unless something else went bad? Like crank position sensor I've read.

    Can someone run me through what to check and in what order?

    I'm only in town for the weekend and would like to get it running because it could be sitting for a while again.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • MrBurgundy
    R3V Elite
    • Mar 2012
    • 5330

    #2
    check the wiring going to the dme since you're saying this happened after replacing the dash, but most of the time, no fuel/spark is the cps.
    Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP // 2024 Yamaha XSR700 // 2024 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

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    • scalabroni97
      Noobie
      • Apr 2016
      • 9

      #3
      Thanks for the reply.

      The wiring all looks ok I guess I'll go about testing CPS.

      Comment

      • scalabroni97
        Noobie
        • Apr 2016
        • 9

        #4
        Can you tell me how exactly to check the CPS? I'm finding mixed results and am quite confused now. Am I looking for camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor?

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        • scalabroni97
          Noobie
          • Apr 2016
          • 9

          #5
          Don't know if it matters but the battery is for sure bad. I've been jumping it to try and start it and it seems to be cranking pretty good. Too dark now but I'd like to get this thing running tomorrow if it takes all day.

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          • MrBurgundy
            R3V Elite
            • Mar 2012
            • 5330

            #6
            Its a crankshaft position sensor in the bell housing. If you have a multimeter, you can do a resistance test. I forgot the correct resistance, you can look that up though. iirc its 540 ohms +/- 10%.
            Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP // 2024 Yamaha XSR700 // 2024 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

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            • Blackthorn
              Advanced Member
              • Sep 2016
              • 125

              #7
              Isnt the CPS on the vibration dampener on the crank? http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/1...bbb6ebd74f.jpg

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              • MrBurgundy
                R3V Elite
                • Mar 2012
                • 5330

                #8
                On the "e" its on the driver's side of the bell housing. The "i" motor has it on the harmonic balancer.
                Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP // 2024 Yamaha XSR700 // 2024 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon

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                • Blackthorn
                  Advanced Member
                  • Sep 2016
                  • 125

                  #9
                  Ah gotcha.

                  Comment

                  • 101
                    Mod Crazy
                    • Jul 2011
                    • 764

                    #10
                    Originally posted by MrBurgundy
                    On the "e" its on the driver's side of the bell housing. The "i" motor has it on the harmonic balancer.
                    ^^^ and on the "e" motors there's two of them.
                    101

                    The E30 collection:
                    1987 325es M52 - Schwarz / Taurus Red Sport (son #2's)
                    1987 325is - Delphin / Black Sport (son #3's)
                    1987 325i Convertible - Triple Black
                    1989 325iX Coupe - Diamondschwarz / Black Comfort
                    1990 325iX Coupe - Sterling Silver / Grey Sport

                    1981 Fiat 124 Spider 2000 - Green / Tan
                    1998 Volvo V70 GLT - White / Tan
                    1998 Volvo S70 T5 manual - White / Taupe
                    2001 Ford Windstar - Silver / Grey (parts hauler)
                    2006 Lexus GX470 - White / Tan (tow rig)

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                    • e30onBBSs
                      E30 Fanatic
                      • Dec 2014
                      • 1347

                      #11
                      If it worked before you swapped the dash, and now it doesn't work, it's almost guaranteed you broke it. What happens when you turn the key? There are numerous super important pieces in/ behind the dash so depending on how the car responds to ignition on and starting you will be able to find it pretty fast.

                      I would check shit like the ignition switch and all that electrical stuff, the cluster and what have you. It's probably as simple as a disconnected switch or relay or module under there
                      BMW tech
                      Umass Amherst
                      05 wrx sti

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                      • scalabroni97
                        Noobie
                        • Apr 2016
                        • 9

                        #12
                        Originally posted by e30onBBSs
                        If it worked before you swapped the dash, and now it doesn't work, it's almost guaranteed you broke it. What happens when you turn the key? There are numerous super important pieces in/ behind the dash so depending on how the car responds to ignition on and starting you will be able to find it pretty fast.

                        I would check shit like the ignition switch and all that electrical stuff, the cluster and what have you. It's probably as simple as a disconnected switch or relay or module under there
                        I have the dash out again because I thought there would be something behind there that could keep it from starting, but I dont see anything of importance. There are a several ground wires grounding to the same place which look good. I have the ECU plugged in of course, and one other small box plugged in. No AC controls or radio or instrument cluster installed ATM. Anything that I'm overlooking that could keep the car from starting and getting spark in the interior?

                        Comment

                        • scalabroni97
                          Noobie
                          • Apr 2016
                          • 9

                          #13
                          I know it has been a while since i have posted, I had given up on getting it to start. But the good news is my motivation to get the e30 running is back.

                          Here's what I have done the last few months that still have given me no spark and no start:

                          new ignition coil
                          new rotor + cleaned the cap
                          new crankshaft position sensor

                          I returned each item after I still didn't get any spark.

                          Again- the engine cranks and cranks, but does not fire. Still not getting any spark.

                          any help would be greatly appreciated, its hard to stay motivated when the problem is this elusive.
                          Last edited by scalabroni97; 11-06-2017, 06:42 PM.

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                          • e30sh
                            Mod Crazy
                            • Apr 2015
                            • 618

                            #14
                            Make sure C104 is pluged in. 3 wire rectangular plug right below the DME.

                            Manually jump the fuel pump to make sure it's not seized. Are you getting 12V at the coil?

                            Comment

                            • scalabroni97
                              Noobie
                              • Apr 2016
                              • 9

                              #15
                              Originally posted by e30sh
                              Make sure C104 is pluged in. 3 wire rectangular plug right below the DME.

                              Manually jump the fuel pump to make sure it's not seized. Are you getting 12V at the coil?
                              thanks for the quick reply. The fuel pump works (i jumped the fuel pump relay to pump the old gas out and put new gas in). I haven't checked the voltage at the coil, i just checked that it was getting power.

                              Tomorrow Ill head over to the car to check the c104 and the voltage at the coil, thanks.

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