Changed steering rack, now... No Start???

[87-325ic]

So, i just changed the steering rack to my e36 rack. When i went for a drive, No Start! it cranks and cranks but no start.
87 325 eta. ran fine before.

All i can think of, is that i knocked loose the ghetto CPS sensor harness connector. the connector is gone and the wires were just individual pins pushed in.

When I reconnected it, I wasnt sure it was right, and tried to start it. I moved it around a few times and still got nothing. I came here and searched, wired it "right" and it still didnt start, wired it the other "right" way by flipping the connector and still nothing.

The only other thing i can think of is leaving the key in the ignition half way On all day because i forgot to turn it off. I was using the steering wheel back and forth and wanted to leave the lock off so the tires would turn.

What could I have done? did i fry a relay? did I fry the sensor trying to start it misconnected?

Where should I start looking?
thanks.

[jlevie]

The first things to check would be fuel and spark.

[87-325ic]

progress..

The first things to check would be fuel and spark.

Thanks, Jim. After reading all around, and referencing some of your other, more detailed, posts, I went out and tested around.

To revisit what i thought could be it:
I tested engine grounding, since i removed teh oil pan ground strap, and replaced it without cleaning the PS/ATF fluids off. Grounded 100%, no resistance.

That ensured my spark plug testing would be sufficient. I pulled a plug, grounded to engine hoist bracket (which was testing as grounded to chassis).
NO SPARK!

I could smell gas since all the other fluid smells were since gone from last night. I pulled the fuel line and tested, Definitely have Fuel.
Main and Fuel pump relays are good, enough. I think.


Then i double checked the wiring colors at the CPS (bellhousing crank reference sensor). (Its and eta)
I measured resistance at the sensor, where I found values online are supposed to be around 960 ohm.
I found 282 Thousand Ohms.. A little high eh?

So, I think I may have fried my sensor when I reconnected it wrong and tried starting the car. IS THAT POSSIBLE?

Im not too sure if that is something that can happen, can someone confirm this for me?

Anyone have a cheap/ spare Eta crank position sensor?


..maybe its time to just do the 885 head swap and megasquirt.. so i can boost this beast!

[87-325ic]

Well, I lied.

I didnt test the CPS sensor above.. i actually tested the Harness side.

I went out and retested the Sensor and it read exactly 950 ohms.

Now I'm a little more stumped. What the hell could I have done to make it not start...
Any chance the sensor went bad hooking it up wrong? does it work like that? is it even possible to hurt it?

I havent touched anything else so I dont understand what would go bad like that. what might have gotten damaged by leaving the key in ON but not Run for a few hours?

[87-325ic]

ANNNNDDD..... She Fired Right Up!

gotta love those moments. the ones you realize you overlooked something so dumb and simple.

So, the Eta has 2 (two) crank position sensors. when i knocked the first one loose, i must have gotten the second one just as good. however, my shitty tape job harness repair was hiding it. i thought it held strong.
when removing the tape i noticed it was definitely not fully connected. im dumb. the harness connectors from the sensors have been long gone, they disintegrated and left only pins to stick into the harness side connector. its a $400 eta. thats why its like that.

thanks for letting me figure things out here, r3v.
now to go enjoy the new rack.

[borrihong]

ANNNNDDD..... She Fired Right Up!

gotta love those moments. the ones you realize you overlooked something so dumb and simple.

So, the Eta has 2 (two) crank position sensors. when i knocked the first one loose, i must have gotten the second one just as good. however, my shitty tape job harness repair was hiding it. i thought it held strong.
when removing the tape i noticed it was definitely not fully connected. im dumb. the harness connectors from the sensors have been long gone, they disintegrated and left only pins to stick into the harness side connector. its a $400 eta. thats why its like that.

thanks for letting me figure things out here, r3v.
now to go enjoy the new rack.

Are you soldering your connections or just taping them?