Questions about my first E30...

[EWAustin]

Hey guys, I've been slowly watching for E30s in decent shape in my area, and I think I finally found one that meets my needs. But I've got a few E30 specific questions that I need answered first.

1: The sunroof won't close. There is a small support on the drivers side towards the rear of the sunroof that is broken, so it's stuck in "tilt" mode and won't flatten fully. The current owner says I can just replace this piece, but I had a BAD experience with a Scirocco 16v sunroof. Is this a common problem and how hard is it to fix?

2: The shifter (5sp) is VERY sloppy. To the point that I couldn't find reverse. I had the current owner show me and he basically rammed the lever into the driver's side of the center console and was able to slide it in. So, I'm thinking a rebuild is in order. How hard is this? and How much is this going to run me?

3: The idle is quite high, but from my experience with a similar vintage E28 it's probably just the Idle stabilizer valve. So I'm not overly concerned abou that. Should I be?

4: The support bracket for the "is" lip spoiler is broken on one end. The previous owner says that he's spent a lot of time at the dealer and wasn't able to locate even a part number. He also bought an ETKA on CD and hasn't been able to find it on there either. Supposedly it is ONLY used on the '87 325is. Anybody know where to get one? Or should I just fake something up?

The car isn't in perfect condition by any means, but neither am I, so it suits me well.
Oh yeah, the car itself is an '87 325is

Thanks,
-Eric


One more thing, does anyone make a harness bar or anything similar (short of a full cage) for E30s? I will be using my car for autocross and would like to be able to mount my harness correctly.

[porsche gt1]

Item 1. It is not a hard fix depending on if the sunroof is electric or hand crank. To take the unit apart takes time but is not incredibly difficult. If you purchase the car buy a Bentley Manual and it will show you a step by step procedure to fix.

Item 2. This is a common problem. Cause can be one of two things or both. There is a set of bushings that keep the shifter nice and tight, time consuming but easy to do. This should correct the sloppyness. It sounds like a transmission mount is also broken as this usually causes the shifter to sit more to the drivers side of the car. When I fixed mine it was amazing how much a bad mount made the shifter pull to the drivers side.. Again both are really easy to do and if you buy purchase a Bentley manual.

Item 3. My experiance with my e30 tells me that when I have a high idle I probably have a vaccum leak somewhere. Yes it can be the ICV but I would check the vaccum first. The usual suspect is the hose that connects to the valve cover.

Item 4. Which IS lip does it have? I say this because most 87' year cars have a very nice valance with foglights on it. If you say it has an IS lip I think you are talking about the bottom end spoiler (also nice) that attaches to cars with ellipsoid fog lights.

What is the guy asking for it? 2 door four door. Give us details.

[EWAustin]

I bought the car monday night, paid $500 including an M20 core.

I just ordered a bentley too. (that will make 4 in the house now)

After I get the Bentley I'm gonna dig into the tranny mounts and shift bushings. PO said it has a Delrin Cup (not sure which piece it is, but I bet it'll be obvious once I look at it)

I did notice some oil around the hose where it connects to the valve cover. I'll check for vacuum leaks tonight. (also, please see my other thread at http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=74611 about the IACV)


It's a 2 door, Bronzit 325is. 215k miles on the clock.

I'm not at home at the moment, so the best pic I can find of the front valance is:

I got a copy of the buildsheet off of bimmerforums, and apparently someone switched my interior out (s'posed to be black leather, but has tan) It's got all the usual IS stuff, 25% LSD, OBC2, BBS wheels, sport seats, etc etc etc. That thread can be found here if you want: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=598403

Thanks for all your help,
-Eric

[StereoInstaller1]

Hi Eric, welcome to R3V.
I too have an '87 325is...which was a beater! Paid $1K, undriveable.

Timing belt, waterpump, tensioner, plugs, cap, rotor, and balljoints got it on the road. More stuff since has made it way more fun.

Alex at AKG motorsports told me he rebuilds shifters for short throw and a very positive feel for $125. I had planned on using the BMW Z3 setup mentioned many times here, but as happy as I am with the front control arm bushings he sold me, I will trust him. I am not willing to cough the fundage for the UUC, the B&M hasn't had enough press to make me willing to spend the dough for that either..

As far as motor mounts and tranny mounts, I went with OE pieces, but if they tear again, I will be doing AKG on them too. When mine went, I tore a hole in the lower radiator hose with the alternator fan. Finding a hose locally was a PITA.

If I ever planned on serious Auto-X or tracking, urethane MM/TM's would be first priority.

You will need no help in doing them, too easy without guidance. You will be suprised how much better the shifter works with just the MM and TM's done.

My stock airdam has been "mounted" with screws into the valence...poorly. I am going to fabricate some basic aluminum brackets and attach it using buttonhead allen screws from the outside, exposed. Kinda "ricey", but never gonna come loose again. I hate the sagging look it has now.

Since I have a spare subframe, I am doing a kit from IE that will allow toe and camber adjustment, but that is a whole 'nother discussion. http://www.e30m3performance.com/inst..._sub/index.htm

I think you will find more simple joy in driving a decent E30 than any other cheap car out there today.

Luke

[EWAustin]

My car is driveable as-is, and in pretty good shape considering the age and price. The interior is a little ratty especially the driver's outer side bolster, but there are NO dashboard cracks.

The biggest reason I'm not driving it already (still driving my MR2) is that I want to get the Idle and shifter straightened out first.

I will definately be autocrossing, so I'll have to look into urethane engine and tranny mounts. AKG looks like they have some good stuff.

[NC325iC]

for the is valence, the mounting hardwar is very hard to come buy and usually very fragile (i broke mine) so what i did is i took the top metal bar and used this to distribute the loud along the surface of the valence and bolted the whole thing straigh to the bumper.

illustration (hopefully it turns out right)

- - - - - <nuts and washers
____________ <bottom edge of metal bumper
____________ < top mounting edge of spoiler (on the front)
____________ < metal bar from oe mounting

| | | | | < bolts


edit: i just thought about this and you may have meant the side wheelwell mount. if it broke off and is still bolted to the car you can just epoxy it back on, i have one break off about once a year

[asubimmer]

I have one of the air dam support bars, I didn't need it w/ the plastic bumpers. Where are you?

[EWAustin]

I'm located in Minnesota, and will be interested but not quite yet (ahh, the life of a poor student)

What I may wind up doing is actually reconstructing the support bar out of metal instead of plastic. That should be a lot sturdier.

[asubimmer]

mine is metal...you aren't talkin about those three plastic brackets are you? I only have one of those

[porsche gt1]

We need some pics :) I like Das Bronzit colored E30's. I have contemplated all too often switching from my 88 front valance to a 87 IS valance. What year MR2 do you have?

[delatlanta1281]

Congrats on the IS!!

[EWAustin]

OK, OK, here's a crappy night shot:


I might be talking about those plastic brackets. I havent' spent enough time looking at the lip to be sure. So far all my attention has been on the high idle.

My MR2 is an '87, and is for sale in case anyone is interested: http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5357

[porsche gt1]

The IS lip will look awesome on that car. For the color on the front bumper you can get a dye that will change it back to the nice black it was. Or you can paint it.

[EWAustin]

Black would definately be preferred. I am thinking about blacking out all the chrome trim too, but I've got other priorities first.

[porsche gt1]

Black would definately be preferred. I am thinking about blacking out all the chrome trim too, but I've got other priorities first.

I am thinking about doing the same for my alumnium bumpers as well. First I am going to tuck the bumpers. It is not high on my priorities as well, first I am going to re-do my headgasket and refurbish all the components in the head. Possibly a new cam 268 deg.