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CRAPP!! weird vibration, PLEASE PLEASE Help!!!!!!

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    #31
    pull ure damn driveshaft off and see if it still does it.

    maybe some how the spline between the tranny and the motor got bent...due to unsupported loads on the transmission....too check that, check to see if the tranny to motor torx bolts are tight.

    once you get the drive shaft off, the transmission isnt really that hard, its just heavy and hard to maneuver the damn thing out unless you have a lift, then you still have to deal with the awkward maneuver-it-out-above-your-head situation.

    All-Red/MHW style Professional Tinted Tail lights
    PnP EMS, fuel injectors, wideband o2 systems

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      #32
      [quote=blueapplesoda;570949]
      maybe some how the spline between the tranny and the motor got bent...due to unsupported loads on the transmission....too check that, check to see if the tranny to motor torx bolts are tight.
      quote]

      This is possible. When was the last time the clutch was done?

      Buut there is no way that it could be the driveshaft since it does it when the car is not in gear or moving.

      1989 325iX
      1995 540i
      1986 325eS R.I.P.
      1984 325e R.I.P.

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        #33
        ive never touched the clutch., so i have no clue.

        ill check the torx bolts, but its a damned lumpy thumping vibration, not just a slight buzz...

        meaning, its more like a fucked unbalanced flywheel, than a missaligned shaft.. and it cant be anything on the transmission, as it happens with the clutch in or out.. in gear or neutral,

        it is completey engine side isolated.



        i dont have a lift, just jackstands and a jack..

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          #34
          road test results:

          It increases in severity as Load increases..

          i was in 5th gear, doing around 45, at around 2000-2500RPM;
          with my foot barely on the pedal.. it sounds like it would in neutral at the same RPM,
          BUT,, When i would push the pedal alot more or even to the floor, (more air/gas coming through and i would assume more torque..),
          it gets more severe.. and "Thumps" louder..

          its still almost inconcievable at idle speeds.. but showing up around 2000 when in neutral, getting much worse with RPMs.

          When starting off in 1st and moving, it seems to show up soon, almost as i start to turn the wheels..


          Does this seem like a flywheel problem to you all?

          also, being a dual-mass flywheel, what could have possibly gone wrong with it to be acting like this?



          Thanks alot for all the help.

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            #35
            I've seen a broken dual mass flywheel for a Dodge Cummins, customer complaint.............clutch shutter/vibration. A dual mass flywheel is like a clutch disc, two piece design with heavy spring buffers. Just as with a clutch disc dual mass flywheels are designed to dampen vibrations. if the internals come apart there's no more buffer between the two pieces and they'll just be banging up against each other.
            I think you already answered your own question earlier when you said the problem is betwwen the crank and the trans. It might be a pain in the ass but you should probably drop the trans, clutch and flywheel and inspect everything. If you kep driving it around things could get worse

            By the way this could be coincidental & not related to the work you've ben doing on the car

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              #36
              Originally posted by ecorrea21 View Post
              I've seen a broken dual mass flywheel for a Dodge Cummins, customer complaint.............clutch shutter/vibration. A dual mass flywheel is like a clutch disc, two piece design with heavy spring buffers. Just as with a clutch disc dual mass flywheels are designed to dampen vibrations. if the internals come apart there's no more buffer between the two pieces and they'll just be banging up against each other.
              I think you already answered your own question earlier when you said the problem is betwwen the crank and the trans. It might be a pain in the ass but you should probably drop the trans, clutch and flywheel and inspect everything. If you kep driving it around things could get worse

              By the way this could be coincidental & not related to the work you've ben doing on the car
              I really didn't want to say it but I think he is right.

              1989 325iX
              1995 540i
              1986 325eS R.I.P.
              1984 325e R.I.P.

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                #37
                so you didnt want to tell me? id rather know the worse, than to not be told..

                im not driving around, dont worry, its too bad..

                i think i will listen to it when an "socket-extension stethoscope" and be sure its in that area...

                then take it to a local mechanic to pull it apart and check,

                depending on their price and the actual price, ill either let them take car of it, or learn to fix it myself....

                Now, if something with the flywheel came loose, or has almost broken off, is there a high chance it can be reattached or fixed?

                Or, will i need to buy a new flywheel...

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                  #38
                  Yes. if its bad this would be a good time to convert to a lighter M-20 flywheel.

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                    #39
                    Latest findings... the problem is still here though...
                    (I took it to my friends dad who used to worked as a mechanic for some 15 or more years..)

                    Compression test results.. Cranked and stopped after 4th bump.
                    1. 135 psi
                    2. 140 then drops to 135 where its steady
                    3. same, 140 --> 135 steady
                    4. steady at 137
                    5. 135
                    6. 131 (yes a little low)

                    I know the results are overall a little low, but they stayed relatively close to each other. It could also be from the 4 cranks the cylinder got, and maybe doing to 4-5 times like the bentley lists would have helped.. nonetheless.. they seem fine to me.. besides #6 being a little low.

                    I do believe the head has alot to do with the results, as i have plenty of valve tick and a little leakage from the head gasket, not to mention a lot from the valve cover gasket.


                    We also probed around a bit with a stethoscope.. and couldnt find much besides normal engine noises...
                    Especially on the bellhousing like we thought, i absolutely did not here anything even similar to the thump i hear in the passenger cabin.



                    All the plugs are getting spark, and none seem to be completely dead cylinders.

                    Now, he did say that is really seemed like a sort of misfire, almost as if as the rpms increase it gets worse.
                    Im a bit unsure about it completely.. but he was leaning towards ignition related.. and it causing an unbalance from the misfired cylinders...
                    as well as when load increases it would be misfiring too..

                    how could this have happened?

                    he reccommended i take it somewhere for lots of diagnostic work, particularly hooking it up the the oscilloscope to check the ignition..



                    What do you all think of all this? what could it be now?

                    i still plan on taking it somewhere, but im trying to narrow it down as much as possible myself.. since well, diagnostic work can get $$$$$$$
                    (especially when they say "well, we couldnt figure it out, but you owe us 300 dollars for the time and labor, and heres your printout.")



                    come on guys help me out as much as you can please...

                    Thanks!

                    Comment


                      #40
                      WOW, First off good work.

                      yes, if it sounds like it is coming from the tranny area and a bump, it could be a misfire in number six. This is the most common cylinder to have a problem. It is usually the first cylinder to have a HG problem.

                      What I would do is first is replace the head gasket(sounds like you need to anyway), and while you are in there I would check for bad piston rings on number 6(and 1-5). If you have a lot of oil going into a cylinder it might not fire. Replacing you HG also requires that you do a valve adjustment and replace the Valve cover gasket. This should solve a lot of the front end problems and could solve your bumping problem.

                      wish you best of luck.

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                        #41
                        thanks very much.

                        The entire head is being replaced very soon with a rebuilt, cleaned, and new seals head. i can't wait,

                        All gaskets will be replaced along with it. as well a valve adjustment of course..


                        NOW, while the head is off completely, what can i do to clean up, check out the pistons/ bottom end,
                        how are the piston rings checked?

                        btw, lots of oil is getting in #6 as its plug was pretty wet when pulled out..
                        also, #5 seemed to not change as much as the rest of them when the plug boot was pulled while running, granted a change did occur, just not as much of one.


                        Thanks very much, anyone else have some suggestions?


                        (ps, do you think the head itself could be causing all this? and if so how did i get such Decent compression test results)

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                          #42
                          piston rings are usually checked with a compression test, one way I have heard of is to put a little bit of oil in the piston chamber and do a compression test. if the results are different than your original then I would say the piston rings are bad. Other than that the best way it to take the engine apart and rebuild. Since you are having that done anyway, they should replace the rings anyway so no worries.

                          question when you pulled the plug on #5 while running did your idel go up or down?

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                            #43
                            hell, it seemed like nothing happened at all, i mean, of course a change occured, since it Was getting spark, but the running of the engine didnt change.
                            All the others the idle dropped just a small bit.

                            Also, the bottom end is not getting rbuilt at all, Just a rebuilt head swap.

                            What can i do to the bottom end while the head is off though? i know i saw loads of build-up in the spark plug hole when i looked.. anything not-Major i can do to make things better while im there?

                            Thanks for the help.


                            ps, i may try the wet-compression test, but i feel the low scores were from, 1) engine age, and 2) Worn Head.

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                              #44
                              ps, i may try the wet-compression test, but i feel the low scores were from, 1) engine age, and 2) Worn Head.
                              You are probably right,
                              hell, it seemed like nothing happened at all, i mean, of course a change occured, since it Was getting spark, but the running of the engine didnt change.
                              sounds like the misfire is in number 5

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                                #45
                                yes, it does seem like 5 isnt running 100% right, but #6 was reading low compressions,

                                what all could cause #5 to be getting good compression, but still be running poor?

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