Shift Linkage Rebuild

[Sean]

Ok, I haven't gotten the cash put together to get the new clutch for my 88 yet, so I'm going to have to rebuild the linkage in the 87 so I can use that car for the upcoming autocross over spring break. I basically need to know what parts I can or need to replace without dropping the tranny. I'm not expecting a perfect transformation here, but the linkage is really shot in this car. Here's a picture from the ETK:



Can anyone tell me what number of each item I need to replace is? I have to be able to switch the parts without dropping the tranny.

Something else to note is that I'll probably toss in the Z4 2.5i shift lever in, since its sitting in my room, just to see how it is. I can always take that out and put the original back in, right? Cause I want to put it in my car when I replace the clutch.

I actually have all of the following sitting in my room as I type this:

1x . . . 25 11 7 507 964 - Z4 2.5l Shift Lever $43.81
#11 up above - 4x . . . 25 11 1 220 439 - Spacer Rings
#2 up above - 1x . . . 25 11 1 220 832 - Rubber Bearing sleeve
#12 up above - 2x . . . 25 11 1 220 379 - Circlips $0.50 (one extra)
#6 up above - 1x . . . 25 11 1 220 600 - Shift Bushing - $4.00

(if I were to buy the Delrin carrier bushings, they would replace the shift bushing up above)

I figured out what #'s these parts pertained to.

What I need to know, is is that all I need to rebuild the linkage? Or, is that all I need up above?? AND, will I only be using two of of the spacer rings, since there's only two #11's up there?

I wanted to save these parts for my blue car, but I'll just reorder them, and use the Z4 shift lever temporarily most likely.



Help welcome as soon as possible, as I want to get this done by next Sunday, so I'm ready to take the car out for some fun. if only I could get the clutch into my car... :?


Also, since I'm on the subject, for my blue car, when i do drop the tranny and I have full access to everything - what other parts or bushings should I replace or upgrade? There's a lot of little pieces there, and I would think replacing everything wouldn't hurt, right? Still not sure here, maybe I'll just ask more when the time comes?

[Chris325/325i]

You'll also need 13, 14, 15, 19, and 8. Those plus the parts you listed are the ones that wear out.

[Sean]

Are those replaceable without dropping the tranny? I'm guessing I'll just have to be patient with my ahnds and everything?

So, basically:

1 13
2 14's
1 15
1 19
and 1 8

Thanks, that's exactly the info I need to know. :)

[Sean]

Any hints?

I'm jsut going to install the SSK, the above parts I listed, right now.

I think that'll do. ;)

[Sean]

Well, thanks for everyone's help...Chris mainly. :D

I got the SSK in. throw definately has been reduced quite a bit, but a crap load of the slop is still there.

Wow, that plastic piece that holds the pivot point was a pain in teh ass to remove. It was so broken, that my old shift lever came out without pulling the plastic piece out.

Anyway, I couldn't replace 2 - I did everything from the limited amount of space below and the hole right above the linkage.

So, I think next weekend, I'll replace #2 and #8. It seems that #8 piece is the major reason for the huge amount of slop in the shifter right now.

i may investigate into changing out the other pieces chris mentioned as well, but I feel like its not worth my time for the red car. :P

And, as a review on the Z4 2.5i shift lever - Lowers the knob a lot, and cuts throw in more than half. However, it did move the shift pattern up a little bit. That's my only beef. I think one with a slight bend in it might work better than a straight one.

[Speed25]

I couldn't get the #2 done on mine either. I worked at it for a long time, too.

I used the z3 lever because it has the bend in it already.

[Chris325/325i]

I have done 6, 11, 12 + shift lever from under the car in about 15 min without removing anything else. The others are trickier, you might be able to get them without removing the driveshaft & heat shields if you have long skinny arms and tiny hands.

I have all those other parts + flex disc, driveshaft center bearing, trans output & shifter seals sitting in garage waiting for a slow day when I have nothing else to work on.

[Sean]

Yeah, I got those done too - barely.

I couldn't reach anything else. Would you guys reccommend getting a new guibo while I have the driveshaft off? I'm thinkin of doing this this weekend.

[Den]

I wouldn't worry about the Guibo unless it has cracks in it.
We'd all like to think that this is the only time we'll be dropping the driveshaft, but experience incicates otherwise. OTOH, if it has cracks and you can get one for $30, replace it while you are in there. http://www.bmaparts.com/

As for the shifter assembly, the more parts you replace, the tighter it gets. I did everything except #2 due to the 'bitch clip'(see install instr on http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/)

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/e30_remove_shifter_slop.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html

E30 lever is bent. Z-3 lever is the shortest-throw you can get without going to a straight lever, which changes the shifter position.

Den
90 325i

[Sean]

Thanks Dan, some very informative links that I had remembered seeing and forgotten about.

Do you happen to know of any pages that have tons of shift lever pictures compared to one another? I'm mainly trying to find good pictures of the Z3 levers and Z4 levers.

Thank you!! 8)

[darien28]

the slop you're feeling is prolly just normal slop. BMW shifters are inherently sloppy... don't expect a JDM shifter feel becasue it's not supposed to be like that.

if you hit the center console when shifting into reverse, then it's sloppy, else it's fine.

[bimmer8604]

the slop you're feeling is prolly just normal slop. BMW shifters are inherently sloppy... don't expect a JDM shifter feel becasue it's not supposed to be like that.

if you hit the center console when shifting into reverse, then it's sloppy, else it's fine.

No, BMW shifters shouldn't be sloppy. I've drivin 2 e30s and a few e36s all with rebuilt linkage, the whole nine yards. They dropped the tranny and had everything replaced. They are all VERY tight and feel great with the z3 shifter. Mines next, hopefully either this week or in a few more.

Kyle

[postmaster]

is this what you are looking for Sean?

[Sean]

Yes, that was the EXACT image that I had been looking for.

I'm compiling all my information into this thread here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5004

That picture is in that thread too.

Thanks, Cale.

[rumatt]

BUMP:

Looking that picture in the original post (which can be found together with a parts list on realoem.com) and considering the recommendations on this pelican parts DIY I'm thinking of ordering the following list of parts:

02 BEARING SLEEVE, ROUND L=26MM 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111220832 $8.96 See SI 230192468
03 BEARING BOLT D=10MMX40MM 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111221849 $3.43
06 BEARING, SHIFT LEVER 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111220600 $7.00
08 BEARING, SHIFTING ARM 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111220707 $16.24
09 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M8 1 06/1986 09/1989 07129946400 $0.21
10 STRAIGHT SELECTOR ROD 1 09/1989 25111220838 $26.74
11 WASHER, PLASTIC 10X16X0,9/GELB 2 06/1986 09/1989 25111220439 $0.14
12 CIRCLIP ZNS3 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111220379 $0.35
13 GEARSHIFT ROD JOINT 1 06/1986 09/1989 25117501309 $22.82
14 O-RING 10X2,2 2 06/1986 09/1989 25111221243 $0.48
15 SPACER RING 16X10,2X0,65 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111220199 $0.08
16 CIRCLIP 8,0 1 06/1986 09/1989 07119932863 $0.07
16 CIRCLIP 8,0-ZNS 1 06/1986 09/1989 07119902293 $0.50
17 DOWEL PIN 1 06/1986 09/1989 23411466134 $0.42
18 TENSION BUSH 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111203682 $0.70
19 WASHER, PLASTIC D=16,5MM 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111434194 $0.42
07 RUBBER BOOT 1 06/1986 09/1989 25111220912 $10.22
05 CABLE CLAMP 2 06/1986 09/1989 25111220837 $0.27

Yikes! That's $100 woth of bushings, and that's without even including a shorter shifter. Is there a better way? Pelican has a shifter bushing kit, but it doesn't include nearly this much stuff.

Maybe I can cut a few out, but hell, I figure as long as I'm removing the drive shaft...